Global sparkling wine maven. Sometimes I go to the fizz and sometimes the fizz comes to me.
Showing posts with label sparkling wine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sparkling wine. Show all posts
Thursday, 15 December 2011
The Rhona, NV, Graham Beck
Returning to the UK and no longer being a Majestic staff member meant that I ended up buying wines from other establishments.This is fine when one knows the area and can find the decent little wine merchants but is as depressing as country music if one doesn't.
After the epic sparkling lunch, my next old friend to visit was in Oxshott, only a hop and a skip on the train from Wimbledon so I swung by M&S to see what was worth my holiday money. Luckily Marks and Spencer's seems to have stopped spending all their money on Take That adverts (money well spent by the way, superb eye-candy!) and have either paid their buyers a bit more or got them out and about a bit more to try some new wines.
I was very happy with the selection, bubbles from England, Spain, Italy, South Africa and France all winking cheekily at me like enthusiastic speed daters.
Being in the UK for such a short time I picked the one that would be hardest to find in Tas-vegas. Wise choice. A cracker of a sparkler from Graham Beck's sparkling winemaker Pieter Ferreira, The Rhona is a Methode Cap Classique full of soft, plumptious, red fruits with a hint of something a little more serious and savoury rounding off the palate.
A fairly even split of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced from Robertson, Franschoek and Stellenbosch, whole bunch pressed with some time on lees to bring a rich, yeasty characteristic through this is a smash hit. If I was still in the UK I'd have a comfortable amount of this to see me through the party season and beyond. In fact, friend I went to see knows someone on the inside and she's done just that. Hopefully there will be some left when I head back in May....
Sunday, 5 June 2011
Bubbleduck 2008, Puddleduck
Being the lucky kind of girl that I am, for my birthday this year I got what I wanted. It was quite simple really, I just wanted to spend my birthday back in Tasmania and have some delicious local bubbles and that is exactly what I got!
Bubbleduck is made by Puddleduck Vineyard in Richmond, southern Tasmania and is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with the Pinot being more dominant. Made traditionally the nose is a really inviting blend of yeast, baked apple, honey, orange peel and stone fruits.
As my birthday is now an Autumn/winter experience the weightier autolytic flavours, bready and yeasty are perfect for this time of year and the wine is freshened up with apples, honey and crisp lemon flavours.
Although still youthful the Bubbleduck is drinking beautifully and a big thank you to Jason and the Josef Chromy folks for treating me on my birthday. I would be very keen to see how this develops over the coming years but until then Puddleduck joins the ranks of cracking Tassie sparklers.
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| Josef Chromy, Relbia not a bad place for a glass of bubbles! |
Wednesday, 20 April 2011
Serenel Rosato Frizzante, Bettini NV
I didn't see this one coming; sparkling rose Corvina from Soave, Veneto but here it is in my glass. I am not one to shy away from the unusual and lesser spotted sparklers so I gave this organic, semi-sparkling wine produced by Bettini a go.
Garnet with a few small bubbles and a little fine beading on the rim the nose shows hints of black cherry, blackcurrant, strawberry and raspberry with a toasty note from wood influence.
The darker flavours present on the nose carry through to the palate with hints of chocolate adding to the mix and the wine shows similarities with some of the red Aussie sparklers that I've tried in the past. Although the bubbles are a little sharp around the edges the Serenel Rosato Frizzante would make a good sparkler for a hot summers day as an aperitif or accompaniment to barbecue meats.
I was not sure what to expect from the Serenel, whether it was going to be a super sweet disco sparkling wine or something more akin to battery acid. It's not a style of sparkling wine that I think will take over the world but it was pleasant enough and if someone were to hand me a glass along with some meat on a stick it wouldn't spoil a sunny day.
Labels:
Corvina,
Italy,
Soave,
sparkling wine,
Veneto
Monday, 18 April 2011
Capri Bar & Eatery, Wellington
If you ever find yourself in Wellington, it would be worth taking an hour or so out of your day for a fortifying glass of bubbles and for that Capri will more than suffice.
Apart from my recent success with the bubbles (Bird in Hand & Veuve Clicquot) I'm a fan of the decor which is well styled without being too try-hard, the music, which at one point was straight out of Steve Wright's Sunday love songs and the well thought out wine and spirit selection.
It appeals to the Stepford Wife in me, all white tables and chairs, pretty dresses and champagne but luckily without the mind-controlled robots and Bette Midler. I'm not going to be in Wellington for a long time but I'm happy to know that I can definitely be here for a good time. So ladies, curl your hair and slick on the lipstick, gentlemen polish those shoes and put on a clean shirt there's some stylish drinking to be done.
Capri Bar & Eatery www.capribar.co.nz
146 Featherstone Street, Wellington +64 4472 2613
Sunday, 10 April 2011
Ritzling NV-Archer McRae
Sometimes I feel that the universe aligns just for me. Whilst I am still in visa purgatory in New Zealand, the Kiwi's have kindly provided me with some joyous bubbles and more importantly, sparkling Riesling a-plenty! So when I waltzed in to see Eddie at Pollux in Wellington he was excitedly waving the Ritzling at me.
The funky little bottle of happiness (their words) has a spankingly modern label and comes in a 250ml serving. A vinous offering of joy and sunny times comes from Chris Archer of Archer McRae over the hill in Martinborough.
At only 9% I was expecting a sweet treat but I wasn't sure if it would be the bottled happiness the label promised. Although luckily for me the stars were aligned and it turns out that just sometimes, happiness can be found in a bottle!
This is a really pleasant, fresh and fruity sparkling Riesling which is a welcome addition to the sparkling world. The official launch of Ritzling isn't until the 28th of April which to me means two things should really happen.
Firstly, is it possible to convince the winery/PR people that high-tea or at the very least small but perfectly formed cakes should be passed around with the wine? Secondly, if you live in Wellington or the not too distant surrounding area one can enjoy a little demi-sec pick me up at your leisure before the rest of the world jump onto the Ritzling band wagon. Either way can only bring more happiness, no?
Thursday, 7 April 2011
Quartz Reef Methode Traditionnelle NV
Many years ago when God was a boy and dinosaurs roamed the earth I tried Quartz Reef Pinot Noir at Majestic HQ for our first training day. It was a good day. When I discovered that they made a sparkling wine it was time to bring out the happy dance.
For those who don't know Duke Carvell's in Wellington it's a lovely little bistro situated just off Cuba Street with a fairly awesome wine list and a friendly team. Slightly more importantly they have a comfortable amount of interesting wines by the glass including the Quartz Reef.
A blend of 76% Pinot Noir and 24% Chardonnay with the fruit sourced from Bendigo in Central Otago this sparkling is made in the traditional method with the second fermentation taking place in bottle.
Pale lemon with tiny, fast moving bubbles the nose is a delicious mix of apples, bread, yeast, honey, citrus and wild strawberry. At this point I knew I was in for a treat and the palate didn't disappoint. Ripe apples, biscuit, grapefruit and honeyed pineapple add to the flavours present on the nose making a really classy and elegant glass of bubbles.
This is the first New Zealand sparkler I have tasted from Central Otago and it is good to know that alongside all that world renowned Pinot is some seriously good sparkling. I'm not sure if much of this leaves the country but if you happen to stumble across the Quartz Reef Methode Traditionnelle wherever you may be don't let this gem pass you by. Bring on the happy dancing!
Tuesday, 22 March 2011
Deutz Marlborough Cuvee NV
Time for some more big brand action, this time from Deutz which is produced in New Zealand by Montana. The original champagne house is situated down the road from Bollinger in the village of Ay near Epernay. I have visited a few champagne houses who have ventures around the world on my travels and as a rule they are pretty impressive.
I first came across Deutz at Majestic Wine in the UK who had a healthy enough selection of sparkling wines to keep even me happy! I was pretty impressed with it then and when I tried some again recently I was not disappointed.
The fruit for Deutz comes from two main estates in the Wairau valley, the Renwick Estate towards the centre of the valley and the Brancott Estate towards the south heading out. Hand picked, whole bunch pressed and separately vinified before being blended and put into bottle for two to three years ageing on the lees.
On the nose the wine shows apple, lemon and honeysuckle with hints of toastiness. On the palate there are biscuit and fresh bread flavours which combine with a pleasant yeastiness, fresh strawberries, baked apple and lemons. With a creamy mouthfeel and refreshing acidity this is a really pleasant and enjoyable wine to drink. Another success for the Champagne houses abroad!
Wednesday, 23 February 2011
Morton Estate Premium Brut NV
I love half bottles, particularly half bottles that contain bubbles so when a friend recommended I go to Moore Wilson's in Wellington I was a very happy girl to see they had a good selection of bubbles from around the world. As I had a small person to entertain far too early the next morning a half bottle of Morton Estate Premium Brut seemed ideal.
This traditional method sparkler is stainless steel fermented and made with fruit sourced in Marlborough and Hawkes Bay. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier the Morton Estate had flavours of mushrooms, baked apples, candied peel and a little hint of spice.
This was a perfect mid-week sparkler, lots of interesting flavours and a good length for a wine that has been nicely put together. There are more complex sparkling wines from New Zealand out there but for something mid-range this was an unexpected treat.
Wednesday, 16 February 2011
No.7: Domaine Chandon NV, Yarra Valley
I love LVMH as a luxury company because their wine goodies are just so deliciously desirable, I mean who wouldn't want a pure white kettle barbecue? Or the lovely deck chair to sit in whilst you're watching your dinner cook?
All the extras are so appealing as they are incredibly good quality. I still love my Moet & Hennessy bag that I was given after doing a bit of modelling for the launch of Moet Rose in the members bar I was working in over 10 years ago. It has been around the world with me and it doesn't look a day older, just like me! (I have a painting in the attic, everything is fine....)
Domaine Chandon is better known to its English drinkers as Green Point, the name of the location of Domaine Chandon in the Yarra Valley. The thing with LVMH is the fabulous extra-curricular shop items are not a smoke and mirror diversion to the wines. There are many Domaine Chandon wines in the list and it makes sense to start at the beginning with the NV.
Ripeness is the key word for Domaine Chandon NV, fresh ripe pineapple, nectarine, apples, quince and lemons with hints of nougat and breadiness on the palate. The wine is clean, fresh and fruity which makes it ideal for shenanigans. Whether it's a birthday a wedding or a general get together this wine is a perfect choice for something you could happily drink a few glasses of on its own but without having to compromise on quality.
That said I'm not sure you can do better than a few glasses at Domaine Chandon on the patio overlooking the vineyard. You can, once fortified with good bubbles, raid the shop and not wince at the bill so you can fill your boot with a happy mix of wine and grown ups toys before someone chauffeurs you back home. Now that sounds like a plan....
Tuesday, 15 February 2011
No:4 Jansz NV Methode Tasmanoise
Jansz is probably one of the best known sparkling wines from Tasmania, it has previously appeared on the blog as a bargainous bubbles which is a factual statement. When it comes to bang for your bucks the Jansz NV delivers on every level, incredibly well put together and a real treat to enjoy around the globe so folks in the UK, New Zealand and the States can get involved.
Lemon, crisp green apples and honeysuckle combine with a creamy mousse and fine persistence to produce a truly classy fizz that has consistently impressed me over the years.
Sunday, 6 February 2011
No:20 DB Selection Sparkling Brut, de Bortoli
Just north of Yarra Glen is Dixon's Creek where the de Bortoli winery can be found. Previous to my current mission I was more familiar with de Bortoli's belting still and fortified wines. Having sold some of them at Majestic Wine in the UK it was always a staff favourite to put on the tasting counter as we could pretty much guarantee that the wine would sell out before the bottle was empty leaving just enough for a wee sample at the end of the day for the team.
The DB Sparkling Family Selection is pretty much in the same vein as it is an instant treat. Fresh ripe lemons, apples and a hint of pineapple on the nose followed through on the palate with fresh bread, touch of yoghurt and white blossoms make this a very enjoyable sparkler. I nearly forgot to write a tasting note for this wine as the combination of a sleeping child, Glee and a great glass of fizz of a Friday evening was one of those pleasures you can't measure.
Monday, 31 January 2011
No.22: Ninth Island NV
Ninth Island NV
A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, the fruit for Ninth Island NV is taken from the Pipers River area of Tasmania. The wine is left for 6-8 months on lees before spending another 24 months in the bottle.
The style of this sparkling wine is fresh, fruity and ready to go. This is definitely not a sparkler that will reward you for careful cellaring it is one to buy (cold ideally!) and then take on a picnic or to a party. Ninth Island is rich and ripe with bags of fruit and a really accessible style but if you're looking for Tasmania's signature style and finesse then I would pick another bottle from my 100 Aussie sparkling wines to try.
Thursday, 27 January 2011
No.3 Bay of Fires Tasmanian Cuvee
Of course I was going to start in Tasmania...
Multi-vintage rather than non-vintage this sparkler is made from fruit sourced all around Tasmania in the Pipers River, Coal River, Tamar and Derwent Valley. Peter Dredge is now heading up operations at Bay of Fires but this was made by the dynamic duo of Fran Austin and Ed Carr.
The wine is a hand picked and very specific blend of 48.5% Pinot Noir, 43.9% Chardonnay with the remainder being made up of Pinot Meunier. Use of reserve wines, lees maturation, good quality fruit and great winemaking combined make the Tasmanian Cuvee an absolute scorcher of a sparkling wine.
Pale lemon in colour with a persistent bead the complexity on the nose follows through to the palate showing characteristics of lemon, yoghurt, hints of savoury notes, honey and fresh crisp redcurrants.
This wine is an absolute pleasure and if you can't sit in the gardens of Bay of Fires with some friends to drink it then I would recommend finding anywhere there is sunshine, great food and even better company so you can create one of life's perfect little moments.
Tuesday, 4 January 2011
2011 New Years Resolutions
I love a New Years resolution. Not the horrible sort that mean no chocolate and no wine, I prefer them to include things like skydiving, learning how to make croissants from scratch and climbing mountains.
I can guarantee you that I will not be doing one of those things this year.
So what will 2011 bring? Not a clue other than things I can do nothing about (the Feds approving my visa so I can go and work at the fantastic Josef Chromy stable) therefore I should probably crack on with creating a few of my own adventures.
1. Drink local.
It would be churlish to live in Tasmania and not actually drink predominantly Tasmanian wine. Or Australian generally at the very least. There is so much more to Australia than the battery farming for grapes that dominate the market. I shall be metaphorically rolling my sleeves up and getting stuck in to some of these beauties over 2011 Josef Chromy, Pirie, Clover Hill, Bay of Fires, Yarrabank and Jansz These are some of my personal favourites and if you still haven't experienced how good Aussie/Tassie fizz is this is the year to discover it.
2. Hit the road
Last year worked out well for me on the travel front. I managed to sneak in 2 visits to Champagne, trip to Bordeaux, Austria, English fizz country, Napa and obviously Tasmania. I defy any wine folk not to have an exact knowledge of the location of their passport and suitcase at any given time, it is one of the greatest bonuses of the job, seeing the world.
Being in the locality; Australia and New Zealand is going to be as thoroughly explored as I can physically manage. Beyond that Chile is yet again bewitching me; a truly glorious vinous experience with kick-ass mountains.
3. Cuddle up to Chardonnay
The Chardonnay love-fest needs to step up to a new level in 2011. A trip to Ruinart and Taittinger where I tried some exceptional Blanc de Blancs reminded me how great it is on its own in champagne and sparkling wine. It's a great grape variety whether it's still or sparkling and can be heart stoppingly wonderful when treated with a little TLC.
It's time to put the creosote coloured chardonnay behind us and use the sausage analogy for a reminder of how badly things can go. If more people did this they would be hunting down chardonnay like Hobbits in a jewellery shop.
4. Chart the globe
It's going to take some doing but the sparkling wine map needs to be plotted and then thrown into cyberspace to help people navigate their way around Cava, Prosecco, Champagne, English fizz, Tasmanian sparklers and all the other bubbly beauties to be found in their wine shop. Anything to stop them buying nasty wine, they don't deserve it. Well some do but it's a minefield for the polite and friendly wine buying public if we don't help them.
5. Embrace some artwork
Life can't all be about wine. Just mostly. I'm pretty happy with my obsessive book buying, 50's dress fetish and the chocolate habit so maybe a little ink isn't a bad extra for 2011. Just not like this.
2011 is an unknown quantity at a mere four days old. Have fun over the next 361 days and be sure that at least once a week I shall be enjoying the dual pleasure of a glass of fizz and a good book. It's the little things that make the difference; not a resolution, just a fact.
I can guarantee you that I will not be doing one of those things this year.
So what will 2011 bring? Not a clue other than things I can do nothing about (the Feds approving my visa so I can go and work at the fantastic Josef Chromy stable) therefore I should probably crack on with creating a few of my own adventures.
1. Drink local.
It would be churlish to live in Tasmania and not actually drink predominantly Tasmanian wine. Or Australian generally at the very least. There is so much more to Australia than the battery farming for grapes that dominate the market. I shall be metaphorically rolling my sleeves up and getting stuck in to some of these beauties over 2011 Josef Chromy, Pirie, Clover Hill, Bay of Fires, Yarrabank and Jansz These are some of my personal favourites and if you still haven't experienced how good Aussie/Tassie fizz is this is the year to discover it.
2. Hit the road
Last year worked out well for me on the travel front. I managed to sneak in 2 visits to Champagne, trip to Bordeaux, Austria, English fizz country, Napa and obviously Tasmania. I defy any wine folk not to have an exact knowledge of the location of their passport and suitcase at any given time, it is one of the greatest bonuses of the job, seeing the world.
Being in the locality; Australia and New Zealand is going to be as thoroughly explored as I can physically manage. Beyond that Chile is yet again bewitching me; a truly glorious vinous experience with kick-ass mountains.
3. Cuddle up to Chardonnay
The Chardonnay love-fest needs to step up to a new level in 2011. A trip to Ruinart and Taittinger where I tried some exceptional Blanc de Blancs reminded me how great it is on its own in champagne and sparkling wine. It's a great grape variety whether it's still or sparkling and can be heart stoppingly wonderful when treated with a little TLC.
It's time to put the creosote coloured chardonnay behind us and use the sausage analogy for a reminder of how badly things can go. If more people did this they would be hunting down chardonnay like Hobbits in a jewellery shop.
4. Chart the globe
It's going to take some doing but the sparkling wine map needs to be plotted and then thrown into cyberspace to help people navigate their way around Cava, Prosecco, Champagne, English fizz, Tasmanian sparklers and all the other bubbly beauties to be found in their wine shop. Anything to stop them buying nasty wine, they don't deserve it. Well some do but it's a minefield for the polite and friendly wine buying public if we don't help them.
5. Embrace some artwork
Life can't all be about wine. Just mostly. I'm pretty happy with my obsessive book buying, 50's dress fetish and the chocolate habit so maybe a little ink isn't a bad extra for 2011. Just not like this.
2011 is an unknown quantity at a mere four days old. Have fun over the next 361 days and be sure that at least once a week I shall be enjoying the dual pleasure of a glass of fizz and a good book. It's the little things that make the difference; not a resolution, just a fact.
Friday, 26 November 2010
Holiday homes of the champenois
Being a very lucky girl, the sparkling tour this year has taken me to Taittinger in the Champagne region and Taittinger in the Napa Valley. In the guise of Domaine Carneros it is still pretty easy to spot which is Domaine Carneros if you've ever been to Taittinger's Chateau de la Marquetterie
Top: Domaine Carneros, Bottom: Ch de la Marquetterie
Domaine Carneros is home to one of the First Ladies of sparkling wine Eileen Crane. She has created a range that holds its own identity whilst retaining the classic elegance and finesse of Taittinger. Head hunted by Claude Taittinger himself, Eileen's appointment was a shrewd move in developing world class sparkling wines.
One thing the Americans have down pat is a great winery tour. I was fortunate enough to have the sole attention of Bruce Stirling who took me through a physical tour and also a tasting tour. I tried the Brut 2006, Le Reve 2004, Rose 2006, Demi-Sec 2006, Late Disgorged 2004 and the Blanc de
Noirs 2006. Across the board the wines were an impressive balance of ripe Californian fruits with crisp and refreshing acidity alongside some complex developing flavours.
Being a very English girl I was particularly enamoured with the older sparklers, Le Reve 2004 and the Late Disgorged Brut 2004. The hints of complexity and age that had come through on the 2006 had opened up a little more , showing richer bready and yeasty notes alongside the still ripe fruit flavours.
Although both wines had the capacity to age longer, the extra couple of years had made a real difference and I thought at the time how interesting it would be to see just how old it is possible to go with New World sparklers. The oldest I tried on this trip was a 1999 from Gloria Ferrer that showed some real class and sophistication without being tired. I think the goal for the next trip will be to see how old I can go and see if the fizz will hold up.
Sadly this year did not bring the opportunity to visit Louis Roederer in France but the long drive out to Philo to visit the Roederer Estate is well worth it (fill up before you go though, limited petrol stations). As you pull up the long drive to the winery on top of the hill then you are not only rewarded with an amazing view but a cracking selection of wines that are not readily available outside the US.
In a sleek and simple tasting room I tasted my way through Brut Rose Multi-Vintage, L'Ermitage 2002, Brut MV Magnum, Extra Dry MV and three still wines; Chardonnay 2007, Pinot Noir Rose 2009 and Pinot Noir 2007. Back at the Majestic ranch in York we would always recommend the Louis Roederer Magnum mainly because it's a great Champagne but also because it adds a little something extra in a large format.
The same is definitely true of Roederer Estate in magnum. If you're celebrating anything Stateside, get your sweaty little paws on one of these gems. I love alternate format bottles anyway, there's nothing like a little half bottle of fizz and a good book for a long train journey and a magnum or jeroboam for big celebration (train journey not necessary).
I'm going to go off piste for a moment and recommend a still wine, it's OK I'll have a lie down shortly. I am something of a Francophile; I love France as a place, as a people and as a provider of wine to me. Thankfully Roederer Estate have taken some of that French style and skill in creating a Pinot Noir Rose that would give most Sancerre's a run for their money. A delicate salmon pink with crunchy red fruit flavours, cherries, raspberries and red apples with hints of vanilla, this wine is crisp, fresh and great drinking. The lightness of touch and skill in winemaking shows that California can produce very good still rose that is completely alien to the terrifying day-glo sticky sweet nightmares they are better known for.
Aside from the joy of a magnum, my sparkling recommendation from Roederer Estate has to be the L'Ermitage 2002. 52%Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir this wine is complex and interesting with hints of baked apple, lemon, almonds and toasty notes. Slightly honeyed with hints of white flowers its youthfulness betrays the eight years ageing it has had.
Roederer Estate was a fine end to my sparkling tour of the Napa Valley. Well not quite the end. I went for a sneaky glass of Dom Perignon 2002 at Napa Style. Sat next to the roaring fire, surrounded by enormous squash and pumpkins I wasn't drinking a local fizz but at that moment I couldn't have been anywhere else in the world and nor would I want to have been.
Top: Domaine Carneros, Bottom: Ch de la Marquetterie
Domaine Carneros is home to one of the First Ladies of sparkling wine Eileen Crane. She has created a range that holds its own identity whilst retaining the classic elegance and finesse of Taittinger. Head hunted by Claude Taittinger himself, Eileen's appointment was a shrewd move in developing world class sparkling wines.
One thing the Americans have down pat is a great winery tour. I was fortunate enough to have the sole attention of Bruce Stirling who took me through a physical tour and also a tasting tour. I tried the Brut 2006, Le Reve 2004, Rose 2006, Demi-Sec 2006, Late Disgorged 2004 and the Blanc de
Noirs 2006. Across the board the wines were an impressive balance of ripe Californian fruits with crisp and refreshing acidity alongside some complex developing flavours.
Being a very English girl I was particularly enamoured with the older sparklers, Le Reve 2004 and the Late Disgorged Brut 2004. The hints of complexity and age that had come through on the 2006 had opened up a little more , showing richer bready and yeasty notes alongside the still ripe fruit flavours.
Although both wines had the capacity to age longer, the extra couple of years had made a real difference and I thought at the time how interesting it would be to see just how old it is possible to go with New World sparklers. The oldest I tried on this trip was a 1999 from Gloria Ferrer that showed some real class and sophistication without being tired. I think the goal for the next trip will be to see how old I can go and see if the fizz will hold up.
Sadly this year did not bring the opportunity to visit Louis Roederer in France but the long drive out to Philo to visit the Roederer Estate is well worth it (fill up before you go though, limited petrol stations). As you pull up the long drive to the winery on top of the hill then you are not only rewarded with an amazing view but a cracking selection of wines that are not readily available outside the US.
In a sleek and simple tasting room I tasted my way through Brut Rose Multi-Vintage, L'Ermitage 2002, Brut MV Magnum, Extra Dry MV and three still wines; Chardonnay 2007, Pinot Noir Rose 2009 and Pinot Noir 2007. Back at the Majestic ranch in York we would always recommend the Louis Roederer Magnum mainly because it's a great Champagne but also because it adds a little something extra in a large format.
The same is definitely true of Roederer Estate in magnum. If you're celebrating anything Stateside, get your sweaty little paws on one of these gems. I love alternate format bottles anyway, there's nothing like a little half bottle of fizz and a good book for a long train journey and a magnum or jeroboam for big celebration (train journey not necessary).
I'm going to go off piste for a moment and recommend a still wine, it's OK I'll have a lie down shortly. I am something of a Francophile; I love France as a place, as a people and as a provider of wine to me. Thankfully Roederer Estate have taken some of that French style and skill in creating a Pinot Noir Rose that would give most Sancerre's a run for their money. A delicate salmon pink with crunchy red fruit flavours, cherries, raspberries and red apples with hints of vanilla, this wine is crisp, fresh and great drinking. The lightness of touch and skill in winemaking shows that California can produce very good still rose that is completely alien to the terrifying day-glo sticky sweet nightmares they are better known for.
Aside from the joy of a magnum, my sparkling recommendation from Roederer Estate has to be the L'Ermitage 2002. 52%Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir this wine is complex and interesting with hints of baked apple, lemon, almonds and toasty notes. Slightly honeyed with hints of white flowers its youthfulness betrays the eight years ageing it has had.
Roederer Estate was a fine end to my sparkling tour of the Napa Valley. Well not quite the end. I went for a sneaky glass of Dom Perignon 2002 at Napa Style. Sat next to the roaring fire, surrounded by enormous squash and pumpkins I wasn't drinking a local fizz but at that moment I couldn't have been anywhere else in the world and nor would I want to have been.
Monday, 8 November 2010
800 miles later....
So safely settled into my "home" for the next 5 days in the Napa Valley what do I know after my jaunt around the south of England....?
Other than it takes pigging ages to get to most of the lovely places I visited, only a sadistic fool would recommend someone drive from Kent to Cornwall via Dorset on the same day, the main thing I discovered is that England has the capacity to make great fizz from a range of grape varieties.
On my last couple of days I drove through fog and endless drizzle to see the folks at Camel Valley. Camel Valley is another award winning establishment which produces both still and sparkling wine to great effect. Despite it being the beginning of November a lorry load of grapes arrived whilst I was there to be processed ensuring no rest for Sam and the team just yet.
As the winery folks were busy Jack took me through their range in the lovely tasting room which I can imagine if you're not driving and the sun is out is one of the best things to do on an afternoon in Cornwall.
If Cornwall is a drive too far for you timewise then just outside of London is Denbies Estate. It's all geared up for visits, the whole team are incredibly chirpy, the wine is very good, particularly the award winning Greenfields Cuvee 2006. 100% Pinot Noir and utterly scrumptious, bags of fruit, including some crunchy redcurrant flavours, hints of candied peel, refreshing acidity and a fine creamy mousse. They have a train, restaurant, gift shop and you can even get involved during harvest with some picking followed by a trip to the winery to see the grapes being processed and then a tasting and lunch. All in all well worth a look see if you want to know a bit more about English wine but you haven't much time.
I love visiting wineries and vineyards as I don't think anything else can give you the same sense of place as actually being there. There are rules however for visiting vineyards/wineries, under no circumstances must you repeat the following to anyone before, during or after a trip to wine land. They will just assume you are a cretin and are just trying to show off.
1. "You know we went to (insert winery name here) and this only cost a couple of Euros/Dollars/Groats and it's what all the locals drink. It's so overpriced when you buy it here isn't it?"
Oh just f*$% off, either buy it where you've just been and have it shipped over or just keep your mouth shut. End of, nobody cares.
2. "That's hardly a taste, how am i supposed to find out if I like it from that tiny amount"
Tasting, not a free bar. If you want more buy it from these nice people who just gave you a sample to taste and let you look around their winery.
3. "It just tastes like wine, all that other stuff is just power of suggestion, you're only saying you can taste blackcurrants because someone else said it. They all taste the same to me"
Why did you go to visit a winery? Go home immediately after apologising to the person at the cellar door who has been looking after you.
More pics from the UK leg can be found on the Facebook page for Flute and Vine http://tinyurl.com/27f7rl6
Thursday, 4 November 2010
Yes England makes wine and yes it is good....
So day 2 of the UK road trip and what do I know apart from the fact I've spent a huge amount of time in the car? Well I can pat myself on the back for the accurate assumption that we can make cracking fizz here in England.
First stop was a repeat visit to Chapel Down in Tenterden, one of the bigger producers of sparkling wine in the UK and a jolly lovely place to visit. Having become familiar with Chapel Down at Majestic, I made a flying visit earlier in the year and as I was in the area to visit Andrew at Gusbourne I felt it would be rude not to pop in again. They have a very well set out offering with a fancy pants restaurant, Richard Phillipe, upstairs and a tasting area/fancy pants deli shop below. I took a meander around the vineyard as it was an uncharacteristically warm day with golden sunshine blazing through the yellows, reds and oranges of an English autumn.
Fizz wise the range of six is a mix of the traditional and the what exactly is that of Reichensteiner and Rivaner. Prices range from £16.99 to £24.99 which is pretty typical of English sparklers and well priced when considering the quality produced.
A few miles away is Gusbourne Vineyards, a huge property that is partially planted with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The capacity for growth at Gusbourne is huge as there is lots of good land that just hasn't been planted yet. It's a good job there is capacity for growth as this stuff is fantastic! I've tried a few English sparklers made from traditional varietals and they have all been most impressive.
Nyetimber (got to include them even if the meanies won't let me visit!) Camel Valley and Ridgeview have won scores of awards and accolades between them over the years and a visit to Gusbourne says to me that this isn't a fluke. The ability to produce serious, high quality exciting and dynamic sparkling wine is what English wine is all about. There are some very good still wines around, the Gusbourne Pinot Noir 2007 will keep the French on their toes but it is sparkling that we excel at. I tried the 2006 Brut and the 2006 Blanc de Blancs which blew me away. There is a rose in the pipeline which I look forward to trying at a later date.
I had a long an interesting chat with Nick from Herbert Hal in Mardenl, wines to be released 2012, about the future of the English sparkling wine industry. Nick not only has a real passion for fizz but also a very sharp business mind and I look forward to trying his wines once they are ready.
After speaking to him I still very much feel that we are on the edge of something very exciting in England with regards to sparkling wine. I would recommend anyone who has not tried an English fizz or has maybe only tried one to start scouring them out now because in 25 years time it will be like saying you saw The Beatles at Skegness Town Hall before they were big. Depending on your age feel free to substitute The Beatles for Take That at a Rollers skating rink in Milton Keynes or Dizzee Rascal at Butlins but you get the idea...hunt them out before they go global!
http://www.ukvines.co.uk/vineyards/gusbourne.htm
http://www.herberthall.com/
http://www.ridgeview.co.uk/
Wednesday, 3 November 2010
Viennese whirl
Oooooh Vienna, whether it is the original or the impressive Seal version, it's pretty tricky to walk around Vienna without the song playing in my mind. Maybe I'm just of a certain age...
One of the joys of wine is it has taken me to places I may not have found myself in normally. Like Tunbridge Wells. But that is another blog... Austria however wouldn't have featured in the sparkling world trip if I had not stumbled across the Szigeti stand at the London International Wine Fair this year. Two of my colleagues found me and told me I had to go and see the man who made sparkling Gruner Veltliner. Being me I was primed to mock. Being me I was curious enough to try first. I went, I tasted, I had no opportunity to mock.
The folks at Szigeti can make anything sparkle. I was met by Peter Szigeti at the Sekt Comptoir on Judengasse http://www.szigeti.at/sektoutlet.htm one of the city's two dedicated sparkling wine bars. We drove the hour or so through the traffic to Gols in Burgenland where I tried nearly all 25 sparklers available. Welschriesling, Blaufrankisch, Zwiegelt, Tokaji, Neuberger, Riesling, Gruner Veltliner and Weissburgunder all made an appearance at some point. I can't remember having spent a better afternoon drinking fizz in a while! It was an absolute pleasure to spend the day with someone who has so much passion in making things sparkle. Although they are not trying to ape champagne in any way, skills and equipment come from the Champagne region, I got to watch my first disgorgement in action as well...
Dedicated aren't I? Favourite other than Szigeti was a Brundelmayer, Kamptal Sekt. Pinot Noir 85%, Gruner Veltliner 15%, a very classy offering, excellent structure, lots of fruit, crisp acidity a real gem of a sparkling wine. Least favourite was the big brand leader for Austrian wine the Schlumberger which had something of the pub carpet about it, a bit claggy and mass produced. Very glad I didn't try this one first.
If I've learnt one thing about my Viennese whirl it is not to lose my curiosity. I had not expected that I would enjoy a sparkling Welschriesling and that it would be very well made but I am very glad that I have stumbled across it. I'm looking forward to trying many new things that surprise and impress me on my journey.
I did also go to Mozart's Requiem, Vivaldi's Four Seasons, the Picasso and Michaelangelo exhibition, the natural history museum and a go on the Big Wheel with time to buy an amusing giant pencil for my nephew. It's all about balance....
Thursday, 19 August 2010
Brothers from another mother
Well my trip to Tassie has got a little more exciting. By the time I make it to Launceston, Tamar Ridge Estates, which includes the magnificent Pirie, will be part of the Brown Brothers family.
I have a particular fondness for the wines of Brown Brothers; I love their secondary mini winery at Milawa for their experimental varieties and their excellent and unusual range. I was fortunate enough to visit the folks in Milawa back in 2008 on my Vintners Bursary trip and had a more than thorough tasting of their range and was massively impressed with the Sangiovese that had been tucked away and allowed to mellow and settle itself to become a beautiful savoury beast that showed real elegance and class.
It will be really interesting to see what they do in Tasmania, Ross Brown, as quoted in The Shout, had this to say... “This is a very sound business that ticks all our strategic objectives for growth in pinot and sparkling, and at the same time reduces the risk of drought and associated high temperatures and scarcity of water,".
For us sparkling fans it could be very interesting to see how they help to shape the endless joy that is Tassie sparkling wine and I am very lucky that I shall be on that magical isle in the infancy of this new era.
If you're not sure where my obsession with Tassie fizz comes from, check out these links...you're welcome!
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