Bollinger Rose NV

Rose champagne is a funny thing. Back in retail land, the suggestion of a rose when people were looking for champagne was often met with a dirty look and immediate dismissal of such a ridiculous idea. I didn't mind that much as it meant there was more for the rest of us who knew the joy of a good glass of pink bubbles.

One reason I am so enamoured of a rose champagne is that they are such excellent food wines and Bollinger Rose is no exception. Pale salmon pink with columns of small bubbles the nose showed redcurrants, wild strawberries and a yeasty, savoury edge to it. I could imagine guinea fowl with morel mushrooms being a delicious match or perhaps some duck with its juicy gameyness.

Redcurrants, strawberries, raspberries and mushrooms sit comfortably in a creamy mousse with refreshing acidity wrapping up to a toasty and long finish which gives the champagne excellent weight and complexity. Champagne is not just a drink for celebration, enjoying it all the way through a meal is a pleasure in itself and shows a different side to the wine. As ever Bollinger has delivered the goods so if you don't normally order a rose or drink champagne with food, this wine is a fantastic place to start.

Bollinger Special Cuvee NV

Sometimes I fully embrace my English-ness and enjoy the dynamic duo (or trio really) that is champagne with fish and chips. For these occasions Bollinger is always top of my list as it always brings full, complex flavours and a crisp acidity that cuts through the produce of a quality chippy.

Tasting the Special Cuvee NV at the CIVC tasting in Sydney was another reminder of why I always go back to this house. Pinot heavy, around three quarters of the blend comes from red grapes, the NV sees around four years ageing before being released. The use of cask maturation brings weight and complexity  to a very stylish wine.

Pale lemon-green in colour with apples, lemons, stone fruits and caramelised nuts on the nose the palate is clean with refreshing acidity that balances out the weightier nuts and mushroom characteristics that elegantly mix with fresh apples, lemons and hints of brioche.

An elegant and complex wine the Bollinger Special Cuvee deserves its moniker as something a little bit special that sets it apart from the crowd.

Bollinger La Grande Annee 2002

Every now and then a wine rocks around that gets me giddy. In that wonderful, affirming glad to be alive sort of way that tends to strike me when I go to New York, the Rodin museum in Paris or fly over the Andes. The wine that has got me all happy, happy, joy, joy* is the Bollinger La Grande Annee 2002. 

2002  is widely agreed to be one of the best vintages of recent times and after tasting some other excellent 2002's over the last year or so I was really impressed that Bollinger strode in there and in no uncertain terms, completely stole the floor.

It actually says wow in my notes but for those of you interested in a slightly more thorough approach to tasting terms here we go. Lemon with small fast moving bubbles the nose shows fresh apple, lemons, light toasty notes and some light floral scents. Pinot dominant with 40% Chardonnay the palate is taut and beautifully put together. 

The acidity gives good structure and the flavours of apple, lemon and light toastiness are joined on the palate with some mushroom and nutty characteristics and a long length on the finish. Like a tightly coiled spring the wine has almost a nervy energy to it which shows the promise of a truly outstanding champagne for the future.

It is quite hard to write a review for this without getting terribly over-excited but sometimes I think it is worth acknowledging that there are some wines out there that are worth the buzz. The fact that it is young but so good now and that its potential is there to see in the glass should be worth noting. Stonking champagne and a reason to clap ones hands together in glee and do the happy dance.

* Ren and Stimpy for those of you old enough to remember!

Deutz Marlborough Cuvee NV

Time for some more big brand action, this time from Deutz which is produced in New Zealand by Montana. The original champagne house is situated down the road from Bollinger in the village of Ay near Epernay. I have visited a few champagne houses who have ventures around the world on my travels and as a rule they are pretty impressive. 

I first came across Deutz at Majestic Wine in the UK who had a healthy enough selection of sparkling wines to keep even me happy! I was pretty impressed with it then and when I tried some again recently I was not disappointed.

The fruit  for Deutz comes from two main estates in the Wairau valley, the Renwick Estate towards the centre of the valley and the Brancott Estate towards the south heading out. Hand picked, whole bunch pressed and separately vinified before being blended and put into bottle for two to three years ageing on the lees.

On the nose the wine shows apple, lemon and honeysuckle with hints of toastiness. On the palate there are biscuit and fresh bread flavours which combine with a pleasant yeastiness, fresh strawberries, baked apple and lemons. With a creamy mouthfeel and refreshing acidity this is a really pleasant and enjoyable wine to drink. Another success for the Champagne houses abroad!

Christmas special? But it's always time for fizz....

As you know, I don't care what time of year (and day) it is, a good glass of fizz will see me through. However, many people spend most of the year frittering their champagne money away on ridiculous things like the gas bill and kids shoes so it's only really Christmas and birthdays that are enhanced with the pop of a cork.

To aid them in their purchasing, many a publication will assist them in what to buy. This isn't one of them. My selection here is pretty much based on my travels with my flute glass this year, I would be richer if I spent less time buying fizz and travelling to its home but that wouldn't be any fun at all would it?

Christmas drinks with fizz fans
Everybody does it and nobody should be ashamed of it. We only give our expensive good stuff to people who will appreciate it. Who hasn't wanted to punch someone in the face for upending a glass of something you've kept in the cellar for an age waiting for the right time. Don't do it to  yourself and invite only those who will not incite rage when you open the something special. For me it would be Charles Heidsick Mis En Cave 2001.
http://www.charlesheidsieck.com/en/index.html

I love this wine, it's a big, complex, savoury treat of a champagne and as I also love meat on a stick (insert own joke here) it's got enough going on to cope with marinated chicken, pork and in my head but as yet un -tested Nigella's juicy beef skewers. The recipe is in this book and I feel it may have to happen sooner rather than later. Trial run obviously....http://www.nigella.com/books


Christmas Eve
Bollinger NV. Vintage, Rose and Grand Annee are all fantastic but I love the fall back perfection of a glass of Bollinger NV. It's never exactly the same but it's always great. Normally my Christmas Eve is like a Christmas movie, roaring fire, waiting until the kids are asleep to bring out Father Christmas' gifts, Kings College carols and mince pies. Bollinger just works with that. This year its going to be warm, not dark for ahttp://www.champagne-bollinger.com/uk/#/cave/ges and the kids aren't going to be here. Bollinger still works. Genius.

Christmas Day
I stand by the fact that sparkling wine is a breakfast drink and on Christmas morning whilst whipping up scrambled eggs on fresh bread and a slice of Christmas ham I want something crisp, clean and very yummy so Gusbourne blanc de blancs it is. English fizz is very, very good and whether you'll be watching the snow fall or eating breakfast outside it'll do the trick. http://www.ukvines.co.uk/vineyards/gusbourne.htm

Lunch is as yet undecided in our household but Pol Roger 1999 Blanc de blancs or blended is the champagne of choice. Lucky old me has had this a few times over the year and I think it's my stand out fizz for the year. It's headed into a wee snooze for a short time before it arises again all glorious and amazing but it's complexity, depth and development has been bang on the money all year. Superb.http://www.polroger.com/english/

Boxing Day
Usually means people turning up so get a magnum fired up. Roederer Estate or Louis Roederer Brut NV doesn't matter but it drinks a treat on its own or with the assorted nibbles of Boxing Day. Leftovers, Pringles, mini vol-au-vents, Christmas ham....


New Years Eve
Too much pressure generally with NYE. People often think this needs to be the all defining party of the year and also it will define how next year will go. This is bobbins. I'm planning on hanging out with people I like and drinking Pirie NV until midnight when a glass of Krug wouldn't go amiss. Great people, great fizz. It's a simple combination that is too often ignored. http://www.pirietasmania.com.au/pirie-sparkling

January
Detox? Erm, no. Although as Christmas does tend to be eye wateringly expensive Szigeti Welschriesling would be my fizz of choice. Disgustingly good value for money and a cracking glass of fizz to boot, what's not to like?



Enjoy the festive season, I hope you've all been good this year and you get everything on your Christmas list. I'm still not sure I've been good enough for the Krug trunk http://tinyurl.com/25eau59 but you never know...