Pommery, 1981

So Christmas eh? T'was most definitely the season to be merry this year as there has been a cheerful amount of good bubbles knocking around, not least the Pommery 1981 we enjoyed on Christmas morning. A tricky vintage with a reduction in harvest size due to frosts in  the Spring, the 1981's are definitely ready to show us how they have turned out.

I am very much of the opinion that 30 is a lovely age and the Pommery did not disprove my theory. When Pommery is young I find it a little hard going, not quite at the 'a face only a mother could love' stage, more gangly youth, all knees, elbows and funny hair.

Age, however, does wonderful things and the Pommery has emerged from slightly awkward teenage years to be a stylish and slick adult. The maturity is obvious from the start with a rich golden hue which had far more sprightly bubbles than anticipated. The nose had an intensely rich, mushroomy scent with candied peel and some oxidised flavours coming through.

Rich and truffley on the palate, the Pommery was toasty, concentrated and vary satisfying. Intense baked apple, candied peel, brioche and a refreshing tang this was a classy little Champagne which really shows how well Pommery delivers the goods when tucked away to grow up a little.

Les Sarments d'Ay, Moet et Chandon

One of my favourite things about being in the wine industry is that I know I will never get to the end of the story. There will be wines I haven't drunk, places I haven't visited and things I will never learn but the upside of that is being able to retain my sense of childish glee. There will always be new discoveries and mysteries to unravel, which is never a bad thing.

On my whirlwind trip back to the UK my new discovery was a bottle that my champagne guru Pete brought to lunch. He wasn't too sure about it's heritage beyond it being a special that Moet et Chandon made but apparently it had been sat around and he felt it was about time it got drunk.

After abandoning the Moet website in a fit of frustration, I stumbled across some actual information from the always interesting Andrew Jefford, which managed to provide me with a few crumbs of knowledge. Les Sarments d'Ay was part of a release of three Grand Cru wines from Moet in 2001, each designed to show the expression of their grape variety and region. Les Vignes de Saran is made from Chardonnay grown in Chouilly and  Les Champs de Romont is made from Pinot Meunier in Sillery.

Pete is my champagne guru for a reason. Les Sarments d'Ay was a real unexpected treat and it has managed to capture the elements of its variety and location. The produce of several vintages this champagne is the epitome of fine balance; the fruit, richness and acidity sitting in harmony.

Stone fruits, baked apple and bready notes combine with hints of creaminess and the maturity of the wine is evident in a slight mushroomy characteristic but there is still a youthful vibrancy to the wine.

Justerini & Brooks are in possession of some of this wine so if you haven't organised something for Christmas morning then this would be a blinder with a breakfast of scrambled eggs, freshly baked bread and Christmas ham.

Bollinger Special Cuvee NV

Sometimes I fully embrace my English-ness and enjoy the dynamic duo (or trio really) that is champagne with fish and chips. For these occasions Bollinger is always top of my list as it always brings full, complex flavours and a crisp acidity that cuts through the produce of a quality chippy.

Tasting the Special Cuvee NV at the CIVC tasting in Sydney was another reminder of why I always go back to this house. Pinot heavy, around three quarters of the blend comes from red grapes, the NV sees around four years ageing before being released. The use of cask maturation brings weight and complexity  to a very stylish wine.

Pale lemon-green in colour with apples, lemons, stone fruits and caramelised nuts on the nose the palate is clean with refreshing acidity that balances out the weightier nuts and mushroom characteristics that elegantly mix with fresh apples, lemons and hints of brioche.

An elegant and complex wine the Bollinger Special Cuvee deserves its moniker as something a little bit special that sets it apart from the crowd.

Bollinger La Grande Annee 2002

Every now and then a wine rocks around that gets me giddy. In that wonderful, affirming glad to be alive sort of way that tends to strike me when I go to New York, the Rodin museum in Paris or fly over the Andes. The wine that has got me all happy, happy, joy, joy* is the Bollinger La Grande Annee 2002. 

2002  is widely agreed to be one of the best vintages of recent times and after tasting some other excellent 2002's over the last year or so I was really impressed that Bollinger strode in there and in no uncertain terms, completely stole the floor.

It actually says wow in my notes but for those of you interested in a slightly more thorough approach to tasting terms here we go. Lemon with small fast moving bubbles the nose shows fresh apple, lemons, light toasty notes and some light floral scents. Pinot dominant with 40% Chardonnay the palate is taut and beautifully put together. 

The acidity gives good structure and the flavours of apple, lemon and light toastiness are joined on the palate with some mushroom and nutty characteristics and a long length on the finish. Like a tightly coiled spring the wine has almost a nervy energy to it which shows the promise of a truly outstanding champagne for the future.

It is quite hard to write a review for this without getting terribly over-excited but sometimes I think it is worth acknowledging that there are some wines out there that are worth the buzz. The fact that it is young but so good now and that its potential is there to see in the glass should be worth noting. Stonking champagne and a reason to clap ones hands together in glee and do the happy dance.

* Ren and Stimpy for those of you old enough to remember!

Rosemount Ruby 'O' 2009

So fashion and sparkling wine...... Many years ago when God was a boy and dinosaurs roamed the earth I modelled some clothes from the local designer store and was given a comfortable amount of Moet Rose for my trouble (and a faaancy black dress).

When I was told there was to be a lingerie fashion show with drinks I had high hopes. Sadly this didn't go quite so well on either front. I was hoping for the sort of lingerie a Bond girl would wear or something that Scarlett Johansson would wear in those Dom Perignon adverts and the bubbles to match.

The lingerie wouldn't have covered a mouse and the wine also did not elicit excitment nor luxury. They are indeed high-ball glasses with ice which contains the Ruby O in the picture above. Made from non-specific varietals in the year 2009 the Rosemount Ruby O is a spectacularly non-descript wine.

Pale salmon pink with medium sized bubbles and aromas of cherry and redcurrant. On the palate wild strawberries and candy floss get in the mix to create a ripe and fruity wine. I don't really have much more to say about this to be honest. There's nothing wrong with it, not chock full of sugar or anything like that but it's just....fine, which I appreciate is up there on the insult scale of calling something nice but it is just fine.

I'm sure this is the sort of wine that would go down a storm on Ladies Day at the races and hen nights but the highlight of the evening of me was the cake, chocolate dream from Floriditas. If you're ever in Wellington, pop down to Floridita's for a Jansz rose and cake and pick your own undies! A far superior combo and more fun without a shadow of a doubt.

Pol Roger Rose 2002

To poorly mis-quote from one of my favourite films, Serendipity "The Ancient Greeks did not write obituaries, they simply asked 'Did he have passion?" So, as expected, the sad news of a loved one passing brings questions of how to live ones life and whether one will be happy with the view when one looks back over the years.

I am a big fan of Pol Roger personally as was former Prime Minister Winston Churchill the former inhabitant of No.10 Downing Street where my grandmother worked in the 60's. So when the chance appeared for some Pol Roger 2002 rose, I felt it would be a fitting toast to a woman who lived a long and varied life.

Medium salmon-pink in appearance with tiny, fast moving bubbles forming fine beading on the rim. Crisp red fruits and savoury notes combine on the nose with hints of cocoa and quince. These flavours continue onto the palate where hints of vanilla, Iberico ham, crunchy red apples and citrus. 

This wine is still in its infancy with many years ahead of it but it was delicious despite its youth. So after much pondering I figure one should drink the good bottles not look at them, buy the nice biscuits, kiss the wrong boys and take that trip. 

Life is for living and I want to look back at my life having drunk some incredible wines not just read about them. I want to see the world and all it offers and when I'm sat with my grandchildren in my 90's I'll have stories to tell about the life that I lived. Thank you Granny.

Joyce Haslam-Stuart

Gosset Brut Excellence NV

Some things in life are better than others and there is no greater pleasure than drinking champagne with friends. There was much to celebrate, an anniversary, an impending wedding, a visa and a welcome to the house so what else could we do but get glammed up and head on out to drink some bubbles.

Gosset have their caves in the small village of Ay just outside Epernay and they are the oldest wine house in Champagne having been set up in 1584. The house style is fresh and crisp with them avoiding malolactic fermentation and the richer, softer, creamier flavours that brings.

The Excellence Brut is a blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 36% Chardonnay and 19% Pinot Meunier. Visually the bottle is beautiful and the first glass is as tightly constructed with tiny fast moving bubbles forming a neat fine beading on the rim. The nose has baked apples, lemon, toasty notes which follow through on to the palate. 

There are hints of development with savoury notes coming through alongside hints of vanilla, stone fruit and strawberry. With a creamy mouthfeel the Gosset is really well put together and has an incredibly pleasant and stylish finish.

Duval-Leroy 1996

A life without passion is no life at all. This is also how I feel about champagne so when the opportunity arrived to try some 1996 Duval-Leroy I obviously leapt at it. Rebecca at Wineseeker has managed to secure some of the '96 at an outrageously good price so it seemed criminal not to open some over Easter.

1996 as many of you already know was a stonking year for Champagne with wines providing much longevity and finesse making them highly sought after by those who love their bubbles.

The Duval-Leroy did not disappoint, it was glorious! Antique gold in appearance with small sprightly bubbles, the nose is pronounced it entices one in with big rich flavours of mushroom, candied peel, truffle, baked apple and fresh bread. 

On the palate the maturity is evident with heady savoury flavours, cashew nuts, honey and mushrooms but there is a lively acidity that keeps things fresh and well structured. The wine still has youthful traits and flavours of lemon, crisp green apples and floral notes. I would be interested in trying this again in a year or so to see how it has developed over time as it still seems to have plenty of life left in it. 

Duval-Leroy 1996 was a real treat to drink and a joy to review; for those new to vintage champagne it is an easily accessible example of a well made wine from a very exciting year.

Capri Bar & Eatery, Wellington

If you ever find yourself in Wellington, it would be worth taking an hour or so out of your day for a fortifying glass of bubbles and for that Capri will more than suffice.

Apart from my recent success with the bubbles (Bird in Hand & Veuve Clicquot) I'm a fan of the decor which is well styled without being too try-hard, the music, which at one point was straight out of Steve Wright's Sunday love songs and the well thought out wine and spirit selection.

It appeals to the Stepford Wife in me, all white tables and chairs, pretty dresses and champagne but luckily without the mind-controlled robots and Bette Midler. I'm not going to be in Wellington for a long time but I'm happy to know that I can definitely be here for a good time. So ladies, curl your hair and slick on the lipstick, gentlemen polish those shoes and put on a clean shirt there's some stylish drinking to be done.

Capri Bar & Eatery www.capribar.co.nz

146 Featherstone Street, Wellington +64 4472 2613

Veuve Clicquot NV

It's been a dogs age since I reviewed any Champagne so when the girls suggested we went down to Capri for a cheeky glass of Veuve Clicquot I hot footed it down there.

It's really easy to forget about the big brands as they are everywhere and one assumes that everyone will have tasted it. As my friend Ging says, "Assumption is the mother of all f#%k ups" so one review coming up...

Tight, tiny bubbles formed some fine beading on the rim and the nose had rich and toasty notes with stone fruits, lemon, bread and biscuits coming through. On the palate I found it a little youthful and the dosage slightly clunky, maybe to try and even out the green flavours. 

That aside the toastier notes from the nose do make it through onto the palate and hints of lemon, quince and honey combine to make the youthfulness less obvious. I would probably say this non-vintage could do with spending a bit more time ageing before release to be shown at its full glory.

Deutz Marlborough Cuvee NV

Time for some more big brand action, this time from Deutz which is produced in New Zealand by Montana. The original champagne house is situated down the road from Bollinger in the village of Ay near Epernay. I have visited a few champagne houses who have ventures around the world on my travels and as a rule they are pretty impressive. 

I first came across Deutz at Majestic Wine in the UK who had a healthy enough selection of sparkling wines to keep even me happy! I was pretty impressed with it then and when I tried some again recently I was not disappointed.

The fruit  for Deutz comes from two main estates in the Wairau valley, the Renwick Estate towards the centre of the valley and the Brancott Estate towards the south heading out. Hand picked, whole bunch pressed and separately vinified before being blended and put into bottle for two to three years ageing on the lees.

On the nose the wine shows apple, lemon and honeysuckle with hints of toastiness. On the palate there are biscuit and fresh bread flavours which combine with a pleasant yeastiness, fresh strawberries, baked apple and lemons. With a creamy mouthfeel and refreshing acidity this is a really pleasant and enjoyable wine to drink. Another success for the Champagne houses abroad!

Wineseeker sparkling tasting, the Pretty Woman version

Now sometimes as wine folk it's very easy to forget that spending $60 on a bottle of wine is not a bargain to a lot of people. It's also quite easy to forget that some people don't know where Rioja is, or that Montepulciano is both place and grape. It's also really easy to forget to be nice to people.

The scene in Pretty Woman where Julia Roberts is still dressed like a hooker and she walks into the dress shop in order to get herself into some decent garb and is soundly rebuffed is a little too common in the wine world sadly. 

As I don't look like the sparkling wine goddess that I am, I have been into a few wine merchants and been looked up and down and then ignored because I don't look like I'm going to buy the good stuff. The problem with that is, you're a shop and I spend my money on wine, books and dresses that's about it and in that order. 

Luckily Wineseeker in Wellington isn't like that at all, they cover the two essential factors a wine shop should have, after nice wine of course, they are intelligent and nice.

I stumbled across their shop after about a day or so  in Wellington and the manager Rebecca was friendly and passionate about wine even before she found out I was also a wine nerd. They have several tastings at the store and on the Friday before Valentines Day they did the decent thing and held a sparkling tasting.

The two sparklers on tasting were Daniel Le Brun Blanc de Blancs 2002 and Jean-Marc Vigreux-Frere NV Champagne.

The Daniel Le Brun was a sneaky little wine whose youthful freshness belied its almost 9 years ageing.  Sprightly and full of fresh lemons, baked bread and dairy notes on the nose the palate followed through with some baked and fresh apple flavours and a lot less maturity than I expected particularly considering it has spent 6 years on the lees.

I was reliably informed that the Huia Blanc de Blancs 2004 that they tried at a tasting earlier in the week is far closer to what one would expect from a  B de B with a little age on it.
 
The Jean-Marc Vigreux-Frere was  actually the first champagne that I have had in  a little while as I'm trying to stick to my New Years resolution of drinking local. Produced by a family who have been a going concern since the mid-80's it was a tasty treat.

The wine showed nougat, candied fruits, baked apple and hints of ground almonds with a creamy mousse and a very pleasant finish.

Wineseeker have a great selection of wines and are truly passionate about their wines in the way good wine merchants should be. Wine isn't only for us chosen few, it is for everyone to enjoy and if there were more places like Wineseeker then the wine buying public would be a little bit happier and less likely to buy mass marketed tat than they are now.

Contact them for future tasting details and general wine purchasing at...
Wineseeker,  86-96 Victoria Street, Wellington, 04 473 0228
www.wineseeker.co.nz

Christmas special? But it's always time for fizz....

As you know, I don't care what time of year (and day) it is, a good glass of fizz will see me through. However, many people spend most of the year frittering their champagne money away on ridiculous things like the gas bill and kids shoes so it's only really Christmas and birthdays that are enhanced with the pop of a cork.

To aid them in their purchasing, many a publication will assist them in what to buy. This isn't one of them. My selection here is pretty much based on my travels with my flute glass this year, I would be richer if I spent less time buying fizz and travelling to its home but that wouldn't be any fun at all would it?

Christmas drinks with fizz fans
Everybody does it and nobody should be ashamed of it. We only give our expensive good stuff to people who will appreciate it. Who hasn't wanted to punch someone in the face for upending a glass of something you've kept in the cellar for an age waiting for the right time. Don't do it to  yourself and invite only those who will not incite rage when you open the something special. For me it would be Charles Heidsick Mis En Cave 2001.
http://www.charlesheidsieck.com/en/index.html

I love this wine, it's a big, complex, savoury treat of a champagne and as I also love meat on a stick (insert own joke here) it's got enough going on to cope with marinated chicken, pork and in my head but as yet un -tested Nigella's juicy beef skewers. The recipe is in this book and I feel it may have to happen sooner rather than later. Trial run obviously....http://www.nigella.com/books


Christmas Eve
Bollinger NV. Vintage, Rose and Grand Annee are all fantastic but I love the fall back perfection of a glass of Bollinger NV. It's never exactly the same but it's always great. Normally my Christmas Eve is like a Christmas movie, roaring fire, waiting until the kids are asleep to bring out Father Christmas' gifts, Kings College carols and mince pies. Bollinger just works with that. This year its going to be warm, not dark for ahttp://www.champagne-bollinger.com/uk/#/cave/ges and the kids aren't going to be here. Bollinger still works. Genius.

Christmas Day
I stand by the fact that sparkling wine is a breakfast drink and on Christmas morning whilst whipping up scrambled eggs on fresh bread and a slice of Christmas ham I want something crisp, clean and very yummy so Gusbourne blanc de blancs it is. English fizz is very, very good and whether you'll be watching the snow fall or eating breakfast outside it'll do the trick. http://www.ukvines.co.uk/vineyards/gusbourne.htm

Lunch is as yet undecided in our household but Pol Roger 1999 Blanc de blancs or blended is the champagne of choice. Lucky old me has had this a few times over the year and I think it's my stand out fizz for the year. It's headed into a wee snooze for a short time before it arises again all glorious and amazing but it's complexity, depth and development has been bang on the money all year. Superb.http://www.polroger.com/english/

Boxing Day
Usually means people turning up so get a magnum fired up. Roederer Estate or Louis Roederer Brut NV doesn't matter but it drinks a treat on its own or with the assorted nibbles of Boxing Day. Leftovers, Pringles, mini vol-au-vents, Christmas ham....


New Years Eve
Too much pressure generally with NYE. People often think this needs to be the all defining party of the year and also it will define how next year will go. This is bobbins. I'm planning on hanging out with people I like and drinking Pirie NV until midnight when a glass of Krug wouldn't go amiss. Great people, great fizz. It's a simple combination that is too often ignored. http://www.pirietasmania.com.au/pirie-sparkling

January
Detox? Erm, no. Although as Christmas does tend to be eye wateringly expensive Szigeti Welschriesling would be my fizz of choice. Disgustingly good value for money and a cracking glass of fizz to boot, what's not to like?



Enjoy the festive season, I hope you've all been good this year and you get everything on your Christmas list. I'm still not sure I've been good enough for the Krug trunk http://tinyurl.com/25eau59 but you never know...

Holiday homes of the champenois

Being a very lucky girl, the sparkling tour this year has taken me to Taittinger in the Champagne region and Taittinger in the Napa Valley. In the guise of Domaine Carneros it is still pretty easy to spot which is Domaine Carneros if you've ever been to Taittinger's Chateau de la Marquetterie

Top: Domaine Carneros, Bottom: Ch de la Marquetterie

Domaine Carneros is home to one of the First Ladies of sparkling wine Eileen Crane. She has created a range that holds its own identity whilst retaining the classic elegance and finesse of Taittinger. Head hunted by Claude Taittinger himself, Eileen's appointment was a shrewd move in developing world class sparkling wines.

One thing the Americans have down pat is a great winery tour. I was fortunate enough to have the sole attention of Bruce Stirling who took me through a physical tour and also a tasting tour. I tried the Brut 2006, Le Reve 2004, Rose 2006, Demi-Sec 2006, Late Disgorged 2004 and the Blanc de
Noirs 2006. Across the board the wines were an impressive balance of ripe Californian fruits with crisp and refreshing acidity alongside some complex developing flavours.

Being a very English girl I was particularly enamoured with the older sparklers, Le Reve 2004 and the Late Disgorged Brut 2004. The hints of complexity and age that had come through on the 2006 had opened up a little more , showing richer bready and yeasty notes alongside the still ripe fruit flavours.

Although both wines had the capacity to age longer, the extra couple of years had made a real difference and I thought at the time how interesting it would be to see just how old it is possible to go with New World sparklers. The oldest I tried on this trip was a 1999 from Gloria Ferrer that showed some real class and sophistication without being tired. I think the goal for the next trip will be to see how old I can go and see if the fizz will hold up.

Sadly this year did not bring the opportunity to visit Louis Roederer in France but the long drive out to Philo to visit the Roederer Estate is well worth it (fill up before you go though, limited petrol stations). As you pull up the long drive to the winery on top of the hill then you are not only rewarded with an amazing view but a cracking selection of wines that are not readily available outside the US.

In a sleek and simple tasting room I tasted my way through Brut Rose Multi-Vintage, L'Ermitage 2002, Brut MV Magnum, Extra Dry MV and three still wines; Chardonnay 2007, Pinot Noir Rose 2009 and Pinot Noir 2007.  Back at the Majestic ranch in York we would always recommend the Louis Roederer Magnum mainly because it's a great Champagne but also because it adds a little something extra in a large format.

The same is definitely true of Roederer Estate in magnum. If you're celebrating anything Stateside, get your sweaty little paws on one of these gems. I love alternate format bottles anyway, there's nothing like a little half bottle of fizz and a good book for a long train journey and a magnum or jeroboam for big celebration (train journey not necessary).

I'm going to go off piste for a moment and recommend a still wine, it's OK I'll have a lie down shortly. I am something of a Francophile; I love France as a place, as a people and as a provider of wine to me. Thankfully Roederer Estate have taken some of that French style and skill in creating a Pinot Noir Rose that would give most Sancerre's a run for their money. A delicate salmon pink with crunchy red fruit flavours, cherries, raspberries and red apples with hints of vanilla, this wine is crisp, fresh and great drinking. The lightness of touch and skill in winemaking shows that California can produce very good still rose that is completely alien to the terrifying day-glo sticky sweet nightmares they are better known for.

Aside from the joy of a magnum, my sparkling recommendation from Roederer Estate has to be the L'Ermitage 2002. 52%Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir this wine is complex and interesting with hints of baked apple, lemon, almonds and toasty notes. Slightly honeyed with hints of white flowers its youthfulness betrays the eight years ageing it has had.

Roederer Estate was a fine end to my sparkling tour of the Napa Valley. Well not quite the end. I went for a sneaky glass of Dom Perignon 2002 at Napa Style. Sat next to the roaring fire, surrounded by enormous squash and pumpkins I wasn't drinking a local fizz but at that moment I couldn't have been anywhere else in the world and nor would I want to have been.