Te Hana Sparkling Reserve Cuvee NV

Te Hana means To Shine in Maori and with a pretty little label like this, one would hope that it does. An 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir sparkling with the fruit sourced from the Marlborough region Te Hana is a relatively new product in Lion Nathan's attempt at a chunk of the sparkling wine market.   

Ripe and tropical this sparkling shows characteristics of pineapple, honey, apricot, fresh lime and papaya with a floral note which is all wrapped up with some medium sized bubbles which are relatively creamy in the mouth. Generally though this is good, simple, enjoyable sparkling wine which is really nicely presented.

The Te Hana range also has a rose and a sparkling Sauvignon Blanc, which is this years cool kid in New Zealand. Overall the range is an interesting addition to the New Zealand sparklers selection, sitting between the Lindauer's and the Palliser Estate's and Daniel Le Brun's available, it will be interesting to see how it performs over the long term.

No:65 Yellowglen Perle 2006

I had high hopes for the Yellowglen Perle 2006 as a quick Google brought awards and glory but generally Yellowglen seems to lurk in the supermarket aisles looking a little bit girls on tour. However if you are looking for something a little different to the disco divas of White, Pink, Yellow and Red then the 2006 Perle is an elegant little gem.

Toasty and rich with flavours of hazelnuts, quince, honey, lemon, biscuits, pineapple and a hint of yeasty fresh bread the 2006 is chock full of complexity with a tight bead and a real creaminess in the mouth. Although this is coming up for 5 years old there is a real youthful feel to the wine and would be interesting to taste over the next few years to see how it continues to age.  

The Perle was a real treat, we enjoyed it with the traditional fish and chip combo and it kicked off a great night seeing Mara and the Bushkas which ended far, far later than anticipated. Maybe I should have had the disco diva Yellowglen after all.... 

Hippopotamus, Wellington-High tea and bubbles

Cake and bubbles; it's a perfect combination, it's the reason I still love birthdays. If a dapper gentleman were to knock on my door on my birthday offering cake and fine champagne my day would be complete. If he took me out to high-tea, I may be in danger of swooning!

High tea at Hippopotamus in Wellington is just divine. I am still in danger of coming over all giddy and over-excited at the thought of it. Situated on the waterfront in Wellington the restaurant is on the fourth floor offering glorious views of the mountain range and buzzing harbour. The staff are superb, friendly and professional they were the right balance of chatty and welcoming without being intrusive. Also there isn't even a hint of the sneeriness that can affect those working at high-end restaurants, bars and designer clothes shops....

A glass of Dibon Cava Brut reserve came with high-tea and it was very impressive. Showing apples, fresh bread, almonds and lemons on the nose the flavours follow through to the palate with grapefruit, baked apples and a hint of honey balancing out a rich earthiness. A real creamy mouth feel the cava went perfectly with the little delicacies on offer.

The tea menu for the day consisted of pork belly and apple, filo tartlet with a tomato salsa and parma ham, pesto with cherry tomato, onion jam and peas on bruschetta and a cucumber sandwich for the savoury options. For sweets I had blueberry cheesecake, lemon macaroon, raspberry filled choux pastry and a pineapple ambrosia. The lemon macaroons were the best I had tried outside of Paris, superb!

Once I had my fill of little delights I felt it would be rude not to have a cheeky glass of Cloudy Bay Pelorus NV, possibly New Zealands most famous sparkling wine from one of NZ's most famous producers.

Light and delicate it couldn't have been more different to the Dibon Cava. Crisp and floral with a freshening acidity it was the perfect end to high tea. The base wines of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are vinified in a variety of vessels; stainless steel, large oak vats and small French oak barrels which give texture and complexity to the finished wine. 

The non-vintage spends two years on its lees before release and the final result is one of subtlety and elegance. Fresh citrus, apples, quince and honey combine with a light nuttiness and a slight autolytic and yeasty finish. If big, bold flavours are your thing then the Pelorus probably won't hit the right spot but for restraint and elegance Pelorus gets it just right, just like high-tea at Hippopotamus!

Put down the shell suit, it's Lambrusco Reggiano, Medici Ermete time

Lambrusco, Lambrusco, Lambrusco....the stuff of the 80's that came in large bottles with screw caps. Part of me mentally categorises it with shell suits and wife swapping in a caravan in Llandudno, the rest of me is trying to think of a reason not to drink it.

I've got to be honest the label wasn't really allaying my fears.  It looked a little like a wine nobody had bought in the last 25 years. Lambrusco is both the grape variety and the type of wine found in the Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy regions of Italy. There is a Denominazione de Origine Controllata (DOC) for five areas Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce, Lambrusco Reggiano and Lambrusco Mantovano.

The wine I tried was from Lambrusco Reggiano and it wasn't just the cork that set it apart from the Lambrusco's of the past, mainly because it was red. Much of the Lambrusco sold in the 80's was white or rose due to minimal skin contact but traditional Lambrusco is a sparkling red wine.

This isn't the most complex wine but it is fun, fresh and fruity. Chock full of blackberries, blackcurrants, plums, orange peel and sweet spice this wine had something of the Sangria about it which made me think of being sat outside on hot sunny days. The residual sweetness means that it is only 8.5% and slips down a little easier than I expected. 

Served with pizza or soft white cheese this is an unexpected pleasure that would easily perk up a picnic. So keep your keys to yourself, pop your shell suit back on the bonfire and enjoy this sweet treat next time the sun comes out.

Deutz Marlborough Cuvee NV

Time for some more big brand action, this time from Deutz which is produced in New Zealand by Montana. The original champagne house is situated down the road from Bollinger in the village of Ay near Epernay. I have visited a few champagne houses who have ventures around the world on my travels and as a rule they are pretty impressive. 

I first came across Deutz at Majestic Wine in the UK who had a healthy enough selection of sparkling wines to keep even me happy! I was pretty impressed with it then and when I tried some again recently I was not disappointed.

The fruit  for Deutz comes from two main estates in the Wairau valley, the Renwick Estate towards the centre of the valley and the Brancott Estate towards the south heading out. Hand picked, whole bunch pressed and separately vinified before being blended and put into bottle for two to three years ageing on the lees.

On the nose the wine shows apple, lemon and honeysuckle with hints of toastiness. On the palate there are biscuit and fresh bread flavours which combine with a pleasant yeastiness, fresh strawberries, baked apple and lemons. With a creamy mouthfeel and refreshing acidity this is a really pleasant and enjoyable wine to drink. Another success for the Champagne houses abroad!

Riesling, what's not to love?

I think it is fair to say that there are not many wine lovers that don't have an open love-fest for Riesling. What's the appeal? It does everything and does it very well. If you want a crisp, fresh and racy white to quench your thirst, Riesling will satisfy. Something mature and complex to sip and discuss over a delicious meal, Riesling will fit the bill. If you are after something sweet and unctuous that will slip down alongside a beautifully crafted dessert then Riesling will work. Want something sparkling and refreshing, Riesling can do that as well but quite often there isn't much about.

I first discovered the joy that is sparkling Riesling in Austria. There is so much happening in the wine industry of Austria and Germany that doesn't leave the country so if one has not visited then it is easy to miss out on the great wines they produce.

Peter Szigeti of Szigeti wines has an excellent sparkling Riesling amongst the 25 fizzes he makes. As expected it shows crisp apple and citrus characteristics and these are combined with hints of petrol, orange peel and savoury flavours whilst remaining fresh with well balanced acidity and a creamy mouthfeel. In other words it really works.

Whilst I was there I tried a few other sparkling which used Riesling and they were invariably all successful which begs the question why is there not more of it. I am not a winemaker but with Riesling ability to hold its acidity it can easily take another fermentation without becoming flabby so why not sparkle it up? Riesling also holds its flavours well through the fermentation and aging process.

Loopline Vineyards in Wairarapa, New Zealand also make their sparkling Riesling in the traditional method and age for at least a year or so. Showing characteristics of lemons, limes and fresh green apples with a toastiness on the palate which balances well with the minerality. 

The process doesn't take away from the flavour or the varietal characteristics so I think this is one area where the Austrians are on to something that hasn't quite crossed the seas to other great Riesling producing areas. In Australia both Skillogalee and Paulett  produce highly respected sparkling Rieslings from a classic Riesling region, wouldn't it be nice if in a few years time the summer of Riesling could be kicked off with some world-class standard sparkling Rieslings? I think I would be the first of many to say cheers to that!

Wairarapa Sparkles-Loopline, Gladstone & Joseph Ryan Vineyards

This weekend was the Wairarapa Wine Harvest Festival so being the dedicated sparkling chick that I am, I went in search of bubbles. 

There were limited bubbling options that were also limited in success. Wairarapa is better known for its Pinot Noir and Sauvignon blanc with some aromatics cropping up around the fair.

Loopline Vineyards Sparkling Riesling 2008 was the standout sparkling of the day. The fruit is sourced from the Opaki Plains in Wairarapa and is made in the traditional method with around a year on the lees in bottle after a first fermentation in stainless steel.

Pale lemon green with small fast moving bubbles and fine beading on the rim the wine looked enticing even before I got my nose into it. Crisp, green apples, fresh lemon and lime on the nose followed through into the palate with an added hit of minerality, fresh pears and honey. Crisp and refreshing with a creamy mouthfeel this was a really refreshing wine and made me wonder why we don't see more sparkling Riesling around. Delicious and impressive I would recommend anyone to hunt this one out.

Gladstone Vineyards are situated just south of Masterton in the Wairarapa region. The sparkling they make is only produced in years of higher production so it's a little bit wine lake but thankfully the wine isn't made as an afterthought. 

The 2009 is a 50/50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris the wine is vinified in stainless steel and then the second fermentation takes place traditionally in bottle with the wine averaging around 18months on its lees. With a residual sugar level of 14g per litre the wine doesn't taste sweet but instead a ripeness comes through. Pear and tropical fruit flavours combine with a crisp, refreshing acidity to create a pleasant and enjoyable sparkling wine.

Joseph Ryan produced their first sparkling wine in 2008 with  fruit from the Cliffs Vineyard in Wairarapa, a traditional method production with a blend of 60/40 Chardonnay Pinot Noir split. It hasn't really worked.

The fruit tastes under-ripe and a little bitter with a combination of green apples, hawthorns and almonds. In addition to this the wine is oxidised and the sweetness is out of kilter as if they have tried to up the dosage to cover up the flaws. This is a disappointing wine as everything just doesn't quite work. The fruit isn't ripe enough, the techniques during the vinification process aren't quite right and the dosage at the end just amplifies the faults in the wine. 

I am all for giving things another go so hopefully as the folks at Joseph Ryan work through each vintage and learn from the things that haven't worked in previous years they will produce the sort of good quality wine that is possible in Wairarapa.

Although the day had its disappointments it was a really good opportunity to try some different styles from an area not known for its bubbles and be left with a very important task to hunt out more great sparkling Rieslings.

No. 43 Jacob's Creek Sparkling Rose NV

In my tasting tour of 100 Australian sparkling wines Jacob's Creek Sparkling NV didn't do so well for the big brands. I had remembered that the rose was supposed to be better but not having tried it for a while I was a little hesitant.

A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir the grapes are vinified separately and then blended before bottle fermentation commences. This sparkling is only bottle ferments so is disgorged into a tank before being re-bottled. The Jacob's Creek website says that "A degree of natural pink colour is also preserved in the finished wine to produce this sparkling rose style." A degree of natural pink colour? How much of it isn't natural?

Terrifying food colouring aside, this went down far, far better than the NV. It still definitely sits in party wine category, just not in my guests actually hate me party wine category. The extra dosage gives it a little sweetness so it will be able to take the spiciness of a salsa dip or the sweetness of the birthday cake. I really did try it with both those things once all the babies had gone home after a first birthday

This is its success; bags of red fruit flavours, redcurrants, cherries, strawberries with the merest hint of vanilla and sweet spices. The bubbles dissipate fairly quickly in the mouth but overall the flavour is pleasant and fruity. On a scorching hot day for an afternoon get togetherthe Jacob's Creek Sparkling Rose would be a great option  for those on a budget who need something fruity and easy drinking that would work well with the mix of party foods on offer. More dip anyone?

No:38 Jansz Rose NV

 Back to Tas as the list trucks on and I'm thinking pink, specifically Jansz Rose NV. Mainly because it's lashing it down outside in an end of summer-stylee and I am of the opinion that pink is not just for the sunny months. There are few things more uplifting than a glass of pink when it's horrid outside; the delicious soft red fruits, hints of vanilla and crisp and refreshing acidity make for a cheeky lift and if there are some savoury notes in there the wine can match well with food. I have often enjoyed a little marinated pork tenderloin with a glass of pink bubbles.

 

Jansz Rose is too good to only have for a few months of the year, I'm English so summer is an interesting concept... The wine is made from a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay with the fruit coming from selected sites around the Pipers River area which are kept separate throughout the first fermentation and then blended pre-bottling. The wines are put through their second fermentation and kept on the lees for between two and five years.

A beautifully pale, salmon pink wine with both savoury and fresh re d fruits on the nose which follow through onto the palate. The flavours on the palate are complex with an elegant and creamy mouthfeel which linger through to a very pleasant finish. As ever this is another result from Jansz and another wine for Tasmania to be proud of.

Toys for champagne lovers

I love branded stuff. All you marketing and PR people, thank you for your hard work, I appreciate all your random goodies. As many of you know from my visit to Domaine Chandon in the Yarra Valley I was in awe of the 'stuff' you can buy.

After a trip up to Martinborough I popped into Glengarry wine shop and found an absolute gem,

who wouldn't need a Veuve Clicquot petanque set? Now I really want this, I've not played petanque for years but I can guarantee that after a few glasses of champagne it would seem like a genius idea. They also had a Piper Heidsieck flight case gift set thing which doesn't have the same appeal as it's not as useful which is the crux of the matter for me.

Imagine if you will being sat in 

whilst cooking on this.  

That game of petanque seems pretty apropriate doesn't it? My haul of branded champagne goods is only in its infancy but I do use a lot of them regularly. My Moet & Henessey weekend bag has been around the globe with me. I use my Pol Roger pen

to write my wine notes. My Grande Dame luggage label is affixed to my cabin bag and the Moet & Chandon mirror gets used daily as I attempt to apply my make up. I think these are my equivalent of designer shades, which I'm not allowed as I break sunnies regularly. Nor Louboutin shoes as I go through shoes at a rate of knots (much, much dancing) so I am enjoying all my nice things via my champagne love. If anyone has any recommendations of goods to add to my collection I will be very appreciative. We could share a glass of bubbles as a thank you. 

In the Veuve glasses obviously...

Cecilia, Alan Scott NV

I really, really wanted this wine to be named after the Simon & Garfunkel song but sadly I don't think it is....Not to worry though Allan Scott has been a part of the Marlborough winemaking scene since 1973 when he helped to plant the regions first vineyard.

Since 1990 he has had his own vineyard and winery in Marlborough, a family affair, where Cecilia is made. Sourced from three different vineyards, Cecilia is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir made in the traditional method with the base wines seeing some barrel work and wild malolactic fermentation before being blended and put into bottle for a least 18 months.

Apple crumble on the nose, ripe cooked apples and hints of spice, nuts and vanilla. On the palate it is fresh and crisp with a pleasant yeasty character to it which sits well with the fresh apples, lemons and biscuit which are all wrapped up with a creamy mouthfeel. A solid and well made glass of bubbles which would be perfect for the sort of evening that will end up with dancing. The fun sort, the sort you might do to, say, Simon & Garfunkel....

Normal service resumed: Palliser Estate 2006

When I told people I was heading up to Martinborough they all said the same thing, go to Palliser Estate if you want bubbles.

They weren't wrong. I was lucky enough to spend some time with Allan Johnson who took me around the winery he has been working in for twenty years. During this time Palliser Estate has gained critical acclaim for their Traditional Method sparkling wine.

I tasted the 2006 which is a 50/50 split between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir which went through malolactic fermentation before being aged for a further two and a half years on its lees.

An elegant and graceful wine, in the glass the columns of fast moving bubbles settle into fine beading on the rim. Rich and vegetal on the nose with some creamy, nutty, apple and lemon characteristics which followed through on to the palate with nectarine and ginger, crisp acidity and a creamy mouthfeel adding to the mix.

Palliser Estate was a worthwhile stop in the search for Kiwi bubbles, the length on the 2006 is flavoursome and harmonious and it is a real shame that there will be no 2011 sparkling in years to come. However, with twenty years experience producing high quality wines I trust Allan to decide when is or isn't the time to make things sparkle, he seems to have got it right so often in the past.

No bubbles shocker part 2: Martinborough Vineyards

One of the things I particularly enjoy about working in the wine industry is that it is relatively easy to ask people you admire for advice or guidance. If you were a struggling musician the opportunity to ask David Bowie about custom made guitars or managing your identity in a cut throat industry would be nigh on non-existent. Although still would be wise to pick your questions wisely, I'm impressed by Tim Atkins pictures from his recent California vineyards trip but if I was to ask him for advice on how to improve my own pictures then he probably would tell me to start using a camera and stop using my phone....

Luckily for me after a morning with Helen at Ata Rangi I had the opportunity to have a flying visit with Paul at Martinborough Vineyards. In the UK I was lucky enough to sell the MV Pinot Noir and the Te Tera at Majestic Wine Warehouses but it is only when I found my way to New Zealand that I've tried some of their other varietals. I have always enjoyed the Te Tera as it is designed for younger drinking with it's bright, fresh, crisp fruit but it will also reward your patience if you tuck it away somewhere for a few years with some savoury, gamey complexity.

 

Like Helen, Paul was in the midst of pre-harvest prep and shared with me some more similarities in their wine making styles. He too takes a minimal intervention approach with the wines being left to ferment naturally and additions being used only when necessary. I asked him about 'natural' wine making where the wines really are left to make themselves and he seemed pretty keen to find out more about the whole shenanigans before sitting back and letting them sort themselves out in a truly hands-off approach!

As time was short I didn't do a full tasting as The Matterhorn has kept me in MV Sauvignon Blanc since I arrived in Wellington and Majestic kept the Pinot flowing so I snuck in a little Chardonnay as it's a real over looked gem. Everybody gets very excited about the Sauvignon and the Pinot but there are some absolute beauties in the kiwi chardonnay stable.

The MV Chardonnay kept the dream alive...crisp, fresh acidity balanced out with a hint of toastiness and a mix of fresh apples and stone fruits. An elegant and well structured wine it is drinking beautifully now but will continue to mature over the next few years. 

Sadly that was it for this visit to Martinborough Vineyards but next time I look forward to some more excellent chardonnay and possibly a play of the dinosaurs...

No bubbles shocker Part 1:Ata Rangi

Steady yourself folks, there is no sparkling in this blog but before  you think I've lost the sparkle in my life it is going to be alright because there's still Pinot and Chardonnay because yesterday I visited Ata Rangi.

 

Ata Rangi is the stuff of myths and legends if you love your Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and it turns out that there are more myths and legends to be found on arrival.  The first cuttings for the Pinot Noir planted 31 years ago are said to have come from Romanee-Conti via a wine enthusiast who swiped them on a visit to Burgundy. He was caught at the airport by a customs officer who was also a wine lover and planted them on his land in Auckland once they had been released through quarantine.

Owner Clive Paton heard about this and managed to get some cuttings from the chap up in Auckland and the rest as they say is history. Chief winemaker Helen took some time out of the pre-harvest sort out to show me around.

 The wines from Ata Rangi are made with limited intervention, natural fermentation and although it doesn't say too much about it on the bottles, they have a commitment to sustainability and using native wasps for pest control and companion planting to keep the weeds down. It makes sense that a healthy vineyard that produces good fruit and with a timely nudge and a tweak from the winemaker some excellent wines will emerge.

Aaah the wines...

Lismore Pinot Gris 2010 The fruit is sourced from the Lismore vineyard north of the winery towards the Ruamahanaga river. 20% barrel ferment from vines with an average age of 17 years you can see why people get excited about Pinot Gris from New Zealand. Rich and ripe stone fruits are balanced out with hints of spice and a cleansing acidity. There is around 8g of residual sugar in this wine but it gives it a fuller rounder mouthfeel rather than being sweet.

Petrie Chardonnay 2009 The Petrie vineyard is 25 minutes north towards Masterton and there is much more clay in the soil here. The vines are predominantly clone 15 with around 17 years age and around 18-20% of the wine is barrel fermented in new fine grained French oak with a medium toast and 300l capacity. Crisp apple, lemon, pineapple, vanilla, hazelnuts and a hint of spice combine together to create a wine with intensity, complexity and balance.

Craighall Chardonnay 2010-tank sample The Craighall vineyard is across the road from the winery and is planted with the low cropping Mendoza clone.  Although a tank sample the wine isn't far off being bottled and it is already excellent in its infancy. Lean and clean with a real minerality on the nose with subtle flavours of apples, toastiness and vanilla. On the palate it is a little shy to start out with and then the flavours begin to blossom  into a wine with restraint and elegance.

Crimson Pinot Noir 2009 Drink Ata Rangi and save the world? How can any part of that equation be bad? Crimson is their second wine made from the younger Pinot Noir vines across their vineyards and is named after the conservation Project Crimson which aims to protect the native rata and pohutukawa and allow them to flourish with their vibrant red flowers. Fresh, crisp, redcurrants, cherries, raspberries, strawberries, cinnamon and white pepper come through on the nose, these flavours continue onto the palate and are balanced with ripe tannins and cleansing acidity. I also tried a sample from a bottle that had been open for 5 days and it had settled itself in nicely to become a little more savoury and softer in the mouth. An excellent wine to drink whilst you are waiting for your Ata Rangi proper to mature.

Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2009 The grapes for the legendary Ata Rangi are selected from 72 parcels across their vineyards. They have previously made a single vineyard McCrone Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006 but prefer to stick with their multi-site wine and when it's this good why mess with it? Helen said that she would happily tuck it away for ten years to mature a little further but even as a baby this has a rich redcurrant and gamey nose which follows through onto the palate with some wild strawberry and sweet spices. The acidity keeps it clean and crisp, tannins are grippy but ripe and there is a complexity and vibrancy to the wine which in itself explains why it has such a huge following outside of the tiny region of Martinborough.

Gustave Lorenz Cremant d'Alsace Rose Brut NV

Now I'm not the kind of girl to spend my time hanging around the back streets of a town but sometimes needs must when there's good wine to be found at the end.

Down a sneaky alley next to the Bank of New Zealand is where I found Edward Street and the very lovely Vivo. Vivo was recommended to me because they have a very good selection of sparkling wines by the glass and an indulgent international wine list. 

It is definitely indulgent for me as they've gone past the local bubbles, cava, prosecco to include a Cremant d'Alsace and they have Charles Heidsieck by the glass which is a result in my book!

I have tasted a few Cremant d'Alsaces on my journies and I'm pretty impressed by them. The Gustave Lorenz Cremant d'Alsace Rose is 100% Pinot Noir but it isn't trying to be a champagne. A family owned company they have been producing wines since 1836 and the grapes for this wine come from two sites they have in Kanzlerberg and Altenberg de Bergheim which are both Grand Cru sites.

 Deep pink in colour with small fast moving bubbles and some fine beading on the rim the nose has characteristics of raspberries, strawberries, cherries, vanilla and redcurrants with a little light spice and cherry blossom.

On the palate it isn't a fruit bomb, crisp and dry the fruit flavours do carry through but there is a savoury and almost farmyardy note to it that brings a level of depth and complexity. Combined with a creamy mousse this wine is a real treat to drink, its simplicity is its success. Crisp, dry, lots of fruit a little of something more and really well put together I would recommend this for a nice aperitif or for a glass of something cheeky on its own at any time.

No.52: Kreglinger 2003

Terrible website aside...http://kreglingerwineestates.com/ I had to have two goes at this wine before something tasty cropped up. The first bottle I tried was at best tedious, dumb is the technical term and it was thus....The second, however, was far more interesting, complex and a little bit more like what you would expect from Tasmanian sparkling wine.

Kreglinger are Jansz's neighbours up on the east side of the Tamar Valley in the Pipers River area and are part of the same stable as Pipers Brook and Ninth Island. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes for this sparkler come from the specially assigned Kreglinger vineyard and are hand picked and whole bunch pressed to produce around 450-550 litres per tonne.

The base wines are fermented in barrel and stainless steel, a small percentage was put aside to age on the lees, blended and then put into bottle after tirage to develop further.

At almost eight years old the wine shows the level of maturity you would expect with mushroom, yeast and savoury characteristics. Although the primary fruit flavours have begun to wane they have been replaced with baked apples, candied peel, almonds and fresh bread.

This is a competent and well put together wine which shows a nicely structured maturity although lacking a little finesse. As a recommendation I would say stuff a leg of pork, roast it serve with apple sauce, roasties and a bottle of this and it would turn your average Sunday lunch into something a little special.

No.61: Coldstream Hills 2007

Founded by the legend  James Halliday, Coldstream Hills sits in the Coldstream Hills area of the Yarra Valley (the clues were in the name...). The first vintage rolled out the winery in 1985 and 26 years later comes the release of the 2007 Coldstream Hills sparkling.

I wouldn't expect anything less from something James Halliday puts his name to but the grapes are hand harvested, bunch pressed, blended, fermented in bottle and aged for three years on its lees as you would find in a traditional champagne. Current winemakers Greg Jarrat and Andrew Fleming have put together a really stylish wine that will age gracefully over the years.

The 2007 has only just been released and it is still a little young and tight but showing very well considering its youth. In some years Pinot Meunier is added to the mix but the 2007 blend is made up of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay comes mainly from Deer Farm but there is also fruit sourced from the wider Yarra Valley.

Clean, crisp and racy on the palate with fresh lemons and green apples the wine is beginning to show hints of toasty flavours. The wine is not quite as refined as the 2004 which I tried a few years ago also at four years old but it would be churlish to suggest that this is anything other than a delicious sparkling wine which in a few years time will be a little gem to share with someone special.

Sit back, chill out and wait until the right time, just like this chap that I found hanging out under the tree at Coldstream Hills. I kind of like his style....