Tuesday 22 March 2011

Riesling, what's not to love?

I think it is fair to say that there are not many wine lovers that don't have an open love-fest for Riesling. What's the appeal? It does everything and does it very well. If you want a crisp, fresh and racy white to quench your thirst, Riesling will satisfy. Something mature and complex to sip and discuss over a delicious meal, Riesling will fit the bill. If you are after something sweet and unctuous that will slip down alongside a beautifully crafted dessert then Riesling will work. Want something sparkling and refreshing, Riesling can do that as well but quite often there isn't much about.
I first discovered the joy that is sparkling Riesling in Austria. There is so much happening in the wine industry of Austria and Germany that doesn't leave the country so if one has not visited then it is easy to miss out on the great wines they produce.


Peter Szigeti of Szigeti wines has an excellent sparkling Riesling amongst the 25 fizzes he makes. As expected it shows crisp apple and citrus characteristics and these are combined with hints of petrol, orange peel and savoury flavours whilst remaining fresh with well balanced acidity and a creamy mouthfeel. In other words it really works.

Whilst I was there I tried a few other sparkling which used Riesling and they were invariably all successful which begs the question why is there not more of it. I am not a winemaker but with Riesling ability to hold its acidity it can easily take another fermentation without becoming flabby so why not sparkle it up? Riesling also holds its flavours well through the fermentation and aging process.

Loopline Vineyards in Wairarapa, New Zealand also make their sparkling Riesling in the traditional method and age for at least a year or so. Showing characteristics of lemons, limes and fresh green apples with a toastiness on the palate which balances well with the minerality. 

The process doesn't take away from the flavour or the varietal characteristics so I think this is one area where the Austrians are on to something that hasn't quite crossed the seas to other great Riesling producing areas. In Australia both Skillogalee and Paulett  produce highly respected sparkling Rieslings from a classic Riesling region, wouldn't it be nice if in a few years time the summer of Riesling could be kicked off with some world-class standard sparkling Rieslings? I think I would be the first of many to say cheers to that!

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