Bollinger Rose NV

Rose champagne is a funny thing. Back in retail land, the suggestion of a rose when people were looking for champagne was often met with a dirty look and immediate dismissal of such a ridiculous idea. I didn't mind that much as it meant there was more for the rest of us who knew the joy of a good glass of pink bubbles.

One reason I am so enamoured of a rose champagne is that they are such excellent food wines and Bollinger Rose is no exception. Pale salmon pink with columns of small bubbles the nose showed redcurrants, wild strawberries and a yeasty, savoury edge to it. I could imagine guinea fowl with morel mushrooms being a delicious match or perhaps some duck with its juicy gameyness.

Redcurrants, strawberries, raspberries and mushrooms sit comfortably in a creamy mousse with refreshing acidity wrapping up to a toasty and long finish which gives the champagne excellent weight and complexity. Champagne is not just a drink for celebration, enjoying it all the way through a meal is a pleasure in itself and shows a different side to the wine. As ever Bollinger has delivered the goods so if you don't normally order a rose or drink champagne with food, this wine is a fantastic place to start.

Bollinger Special Cuvee NV

Sometimes I fully embrace my English-ness and enjoy the dynamic duo (or trio really) that is champagne with fish and chips. For these occasions Bollinger is always top of my list as it always brings full, complex flavours and a crisp acidity that cuts through the produce of a quality chippy.

Tasting the Special Cuvee NV at the CIVC tasting in Sydney was another reminder of why I always go back to this house. Pinot heavy, around three quarters of the blend comes from red grapes, the NV sees around four years ageing before being released. The use of cask maturation brings weight and complexity  to a very stylish wine.

Pale lemon-green in colour with apples, lemons, stone fruits and caramelised nuts on the nose the palate is clean with refreshing acidity that balances out the weightier nuts and mushroom characteristics that elegantly mix with fresh apples, lemons and hints of brioche.

An elegant and complex wine the Bollinger Special Cuvee deserves its moniker as something a little bit special that sets it apart from the crowd.

Bollinger La Grande Annee 2002

Every now and then a wine rocks around that gets me giddy. In that wonderful, affirming glad to be alive sort of way that tends to strike me when I go to New York, the Rodin museum in Paris or fly over the Andes. The wine that has got me all happy, happy, joy, joy* is the Bollinger La Grande Annee 2002. 

2002  is widely agreed to be one of the best vintages of recent times and after tasting some other excellent 2002's over the last year or so I was really impressed that Bollinger strode in there and in no uncertain terms, completely stole the floor.

It actually says wow in my notes but for those of you interested in a slightly more thorough approach to tasting terms here we go. Lemon with small fast moving bubbles the nose shows fresh apple, lemons, light toasty notes and some light floral scents. Pinot dominant with 40% Chardonnay the palate is taut and beautifully put together. 

The acidity gives good structure and the flavours of apple, lemon and light toastiness are joined on the palate with some mushroom and nutty characteristics and a long length on the finish. Like a tightly coiled spring the wine has almost a nervy energy to it which shows the promise of a truly outstanding champagne for the future.

It is quite hard to write a review for this without getting terribly over-excited but sometimes I think it is worth acknowledging that there are some wines out there that are worth the buzz. The fact that it is young but so good now and that its potential is there to see in the glass should be worth noting. Stonking champagne and a reason to clap ones hands together in glee and do the happy dance.

* Ren and Stimpy for those of you old enough to remember!

Jacob's Creek, Moscato Rose, NV, South Australia

For every action there is an equal an opposite reaction-Newton's Law

After the success of Jacob's Creek Moscato I had fairly high hopes for the Moscato rose. I am an eejit and no mistaking. On the nose flavours of strawberry laces and candy floss had my heart sinking. The palate lacked all the positive aspects of the white Moscato as without the acidity to balance out the sweetness the claggy feeling was there in full force. The flavours were not of fresh fruit but of pick and mix-fake cherries, marshmallows and more strawberry laces. Thankfully the finish is short but if you are offered the choice between the two Moscato's; don't take the red pill.

No:19 Jacob's Creek Moscato, NV, South Australia

Jacob's Creek has had mixed fortunes so far with me; a fun, fresh and fruity rose did pretty well and we happily polished the bottle off between us at my small friends joint first birthday party. Not the small friends you understand, they were busy smearing frozen watermelon on themselves and fighting over toys.

 Jacob's Creek NV not so good, reminiscent of pub carpets it was something of a calamity of a sparkling wine so when faced with their Moscato I approached it like a postman seeing an unfamiliar dog.

On the nose pears, peaches, apricots all made for a fresh and fruity start. On the palate a very similar story with hints of vanilla, candied peel and orange blossom diving in to the mix. At 9% this is as sweet as expected and has a creamy mouthfeel but good acidity to balance out the sweetness and avoids becoming claggy (Google it!)

Despite not having the obligatory gold stickers all over the bottle this wine is highly awarded and I can see why. It's a well balanced, approachable, fresh and fruity off-dry sparkler. If you are looking for something a little sweeter and a little lower in alcohol this isn't a bad place to start at all.

No:101 Delamere Blanc de Blanc 2006

I have a new addition to the corner of dreams up river in the Pipers Brook area. Joining my happy fizzy trio of Jansz, Bay of Fires and Kreglinger is lovely Delamere. They're not that new, I have only just discovered them which is why they really ought to be on the 100 Australian sparkling wines but foolishly they are not. 

Run by Shane and Fran this traditional method sparkler is made on site in the small but functional space they operate that doubles with their cellar door. 

Pale lemon-green with tiny fast moving bubbles the wine shows toast, honey, apple, lemon, brioche and apricot on the nose. Dry with a crisp, fresh acidity and a creamy mousse. The wine is flavoursome with a lot of elements from the nose coming through to the palate and a wonderful bread and biscuit addition to create a stylish, lean and elegant wine.  

I'm a huge fan of this wine, it is beautifully put together and will carry on maturing over the next few years if you find a suitable place to hide it.

No:80 Croser, Petaluma, 2008

One of the joys of the wine industry beyond the vinous pleasures is the people one meets along the way. The other joy is that they always bring nice wine.


Celebrating new friends (Dredgey, Ella and Tom) new jobs (me!) and a new PhD (Reuben) we were a merry bunch indeed and the evening kicked off with Croser 2008. Being too busy gossiping and eating cheese I managed to write a tasting note but managed took no pictures. In these circumstances I've done the only thing that can be done and included a wine dog picture instead. This is Max, he watched us drink the Croser 2008.

Made in Piccadilly Valley in Adelaide Hills these bubbles are pale lemon with lots of small fast moving bubbles forming a fine beading on the rim. On the nose ripe stone fruits such as apricot and nectarine combined with a hint of vanilla, brioche and a little almost custardy flavour. 


The ripe stone fruit flavour continued on the palate where fresh citrus and apples keep the wine fresh and crisp with a real youthful edge. A blend of 66% Pinot Noir, 34% Chardonnay the wine was fermented in old Vosges barriques and went through a partial malolactic fermentation to create an approachable and enjoyable wine.

No:76 Taltarni Brut Tache 2009

 Continuing the pink theme with the joy that is Taltarni Brut Tache 2009. If you were hoping for a bit more suspense as to whether I enjoyed it or not, the tension is kind of gone now isn't it?

Made traditionally with fruit sourced from Victoria 57%, Tasmania 5% and South Australia 38% with a 15ml dosage of Cabernet Sauvignon to stain it a subtle pink(the French word is Tache) , the more delicate amongst you may be slightly alarmed but with Taltarni you are in incredibly safe hands.

Aside from the Cabernet in the dosage, the wine is a blend of 66% Chardonnay, 31% Pinot Noir and 3% Pinot Meunier which has been put together to create a very stylish wine.

Pale salmon pink in colour with lots of small fast moving bubbles forming a fine beading on the rim. On the nose a cacophony of scents, strawberries, redcurrants, lemons, toast, candied stone fruits, mango and floral notes are most enticing.

Clean and crisp on the palate the flavours present on the nose continue with the addition of some sweet spice elements and ripe tropical flavours. A fresh and fruity rose with clean, crisp acidity and a very pleasant finish. Thoroughly enjoyable and very classy wine which will always be welcome in my glass.

No:40 Yarra Burn Rose NV

After Tasmania, the Yarra Valley is one of my favourite wine regions largely because it is full of bubbles. I had thoroughly enjoyed the Yarra Burn NV so when the time came to try the Yarra Burn rose I was  a very happy Curly.

 A blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 42% Chardonnay, 13% Pinot Meunier and 1% Ruby Cabernet with 70% of fruit coming from the cooler climate areas of the Yarra Valley.

Medium salmon pink in colour with small, fast moving bubbles the nose was a heady hit of soft red fruits. Strawberries and raspberries mingle with sweet spice, vanilla and the hint of something more savoury. The palate brings a creamy mousse and the soft red fruits are joined by crisp redcurrants, a hint of truffle with a well balanced acidity and a flavoursome finish. 

A drier style of rose is usually my preferred approach and it is good to see a rose that isn't particularly pricey (I paid $20) ticking all the right boxes and remaining plumptious, tasty and not cloying and sweet.

Day & Night 2007, Tasmania

Own brand sparkling wine, where does one start? It was under $20 but it was made in Tasmania so I figured that if I was going to take a chance, Tassie bubbles are a pretty safe bet.

Made by a company based in Lutana just outside Hobart with fruit sourced from all over Tasmania, Day & Night is made for the 9/11 bottle shop chain. At four years old this blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay hopefully would show some developmental characteristics but beyond that I was intrigued but not overly expectant.

Lemons, baked apple and brioche on the nose was a good start and the palate followed through to be clean and fresh with ripe acidity, baked bread, apples, lemons and hints of toast with a slightly honeyed finish.

Day & Night 2007 is not going to set the world on fire but if funds are limited and you are in need of some tasty bubbles this really isn't a bad option to go for. It is pleasant to drink, crisp and nicely put together. Who says Tasmania can't do value for money?

No:28 Kreglinger Brut de Blancs 2003

After the success of Kreglinger Vintage Brut 2004, I had high hopes for the Brut de blancs. A year older and just as interesting.

Pale lemon with tiny bubbles showing flavours of ripe pear, apple, brioche and apricot on the nose. On the palate the ripe, full flavours continue elegantly balancing ripe stone fruits with a creamy mouthfeel, lively acidity, toast and biscuit notes and a long finish.

This is definitely another stylish and well constructed sparkling wine which is very sprightly for eight years old. It will be interesting to see how this develops over the next few years but it is an impressive wine with good potential.

No: 52 Kreglinger Vintage Brut 2004

Having given myself a month off to move house, settle in and get to grips with life in Tassie, it would be rude of me not to storm back with a Tasmanian beauty. For the first time in a long time I was able to use the phrase "I've not been here for years" when arriving at Pipers Brook which shares its driveway with another great Tasmanian sparkling wine, Jansz.

Skipping over the opportunity for a gossip with Maxine, the lovely Cellar door manager at Jansz, I wound my way through the vineyard to the Pipers Brook Cellar Door. Kreglinger are a Belgian company which now own the company and produce some very stylish bubbles and a fairly horrible website.

Luckily the smarts are in the winemaking department who produce this delicious sparkler. Pale lemon in appearance and toasty, ripe tropical fruit flavours on the  nose alongside stone fruits, apple and lemon. A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir the wine is yeasty and rich yet lively in the mouth with a youthful fresh lemon and apple flavour which belies its years.

The Kreglinger Vintage Brut 2004 is intense, complex and interesting, alongside the obvious maturity is a lean and elegant acidity and ripe, fresh fruits. It's always nice to see a big juggernaut of a company making wines like this and getting it so very right.