Monday 15 November 2010

How to hide a winery....

Day 3 started badly. As I had done since picking the car rental wheels up I did myself a little route plan from Google putting on any turns and landmarks that might help. I found myself driving through St Helena thinking I wasn't too far from Schramsberg.
About 10 minutes later...hang on I'm in Calistoga, gone too far, let me ask this bloke.

Bloke: It's on the road between Calistoga and St Helena.
Me: I know that but I've missed the turning, it's supposed to be just off the road.
Bloke: I'm not sure where it is exactly but I know it's on the way to St Helena....
Me: ?!?!?!?!

So back I go, eyes peeled for the sign that says Schramsberg Road. I get as far as St Helena and ask someone else if they know where it is. (See above for how that went...).

After another lap I ask a woman which is what I should have done straight away as she pays attention on her way into work unlike the men I asked previously. She lives in Calistoga and drives past the winery every day and informs me that the winery signs are tiny, set back from the road at an angle and about knee height. Jackpot! 

Far, far later than anticipated I arrived at the winery where the lovely lady informs me they aren't allowed a big sign so as a bit of good karma for the day here is how to find the winery...
Turn up Peterson Drive and on your immediate right you'll see a tarmac drive and a sign that says 1400 and then the Schramsberg winery sign. Up the winding road the track opens up on to a beautiful property

One of the earlier wine producers in the Napa Valley, the Schrams arrived from Germany in the late 19th century and lucky Mr Schram got a (very) good tip from one of his customers which left him with enough cash to buy a winery.  All was sunshine and joy until Schram Jr tanked then sold the business. The property was bought and sold over the years and finally ended up in the hands  of the Davies family.




They were very wise folks who decided that they wanted to make their favourite type of wine, sparkling.  Once you've found the place the tour is very good, giving the historical background of the family and the property finishing off with a tour in the 2 miles of tuffeau cellars.






Of the range that we tasted the Reserve 2002 was the one for me. 80%PN, 20%CH with grapes sourced from all around the Napa Valley, the wine has flavours of baked apple, nutmeg, pineapple, bread, lemons, yeasty notes and a hint of almonds. Our congenial host Donya asked the group for food matches that would go with it and I have never felt so British in my life. I thought of something like pork tenderloin with wilted spinach and a creamy mushroom sauce, nothing too fancy.  Suggestions from the entirely American and Canadian crowd, popcorn, barbecue foods, lobster, shrimps...OK I get it your weather is better than ours now stop with your outdoor and warm weather suggestions!

Hide and seek aside, a visit to Schramsberg is a lovely little piece of history nestled up in the hills. From immigrant links to 1960's vision and Presidents aiming for world peace (kind of..) It's good to see where it all began for sparkling wine in the Napa Valley.


No comments:

Post a Comment